Heart and Seoul – Four Days in Seoul
South Korea’s capital city is a thriving metropolis, a perfect blend of historic and modern. It boasts five royal palaces nestled amidst the modern skyscrapers, and the city offers history, culture, shopping and style. It also has an amazing food scene, from street food to posh nosh, and there’s an opportunity to explore Korea’s delicious cuisine around every corner. With so much to see and do, you could easily spend much longer in this vibrant and exciting city. Our guide for spending four days in Seoul will cover the essentials and give you a flavour of what this wonderful city has to offer.
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Getting to Seoul
Most visitors arrive from Incheon airport, about 50km from Seoul Station. There are multiple options to get into Seoul but the quickest and most convenient is the AREX Airport Express which gets to Seoul station in around 40-45 minutes. There is an all-stop train, which takes a bit longer. Buy a ticket at the machine (multiple languages available, including English) in Terminals 1 or 2 by the station entrance. Just follow the signs from the airport arrivals hall. You can choose your train and seats will be allocated automatically.
One thing that we really liked about Incheon airport was that there are a whole bunch of local people at the station who were available to help you purchase tickets. It is really useful if you’ve just arrived and are feeling a bit dazed after a long flight.
Other options for getting into the city are buses and taxis, although taxis can be expensive.
Getting Around Seoul
Seoul has a comprehensive public transport system and it is very easy to travel around. Maps and signage are available in English, Japanese and Chinese as well as Korean. We recommend buying a T-money card, an electronic money card which enables you to tap in and out at subway stations and on buses. You can top up your card using cash at machines or in convenience stores.
It’s worth knowing that some subway stations are really large and have multiple exits, so check which exit will get you to your planned destination.
One thing we did find frustrating was that Seoul isn’t very pedestrian-friendly. We love walking around cities and, although we managed to walk to a lot of the attractions, we spent a lot of time waiting to cross the road at pedestrian crossings because the traffic definitely got priority. If we saw the crossing lights change to the green man from several metres away, we’d run to cross the road so that we wouldn’t have to wait for ages!
Google maps isn’t the best app to use for getting around. It’s not very detailed and we found it was particularly difficult to identify how accessible green spaces were.
Four Days in Seoul Day 1- Ancient and Modern
Day 1 Morning in Myeongdong
Make your way to City Hall metro station on subway line 2. This is the perfect stop to wander around Myeongdong. The area perfectly illustrates the contrasts between Seoul’s old and the new as Deoksugung Palace lies nestled amidst the modern high-rise buildings.
Deoksugung
Deoksugung is one of the smaller palaces. It was inhabited by the Korean royal family from the Joseon dynasty,until Japan annexed Korea in 1910.
At the far end of the complex is the National Museum of Art. When we visited they were showcasing one of Korea’s earliest modern artists, Chang Ucchin. There is a small fee to enter.
Make sure to time your visit for the changing of the guard – at 11am, 2pm and 3:30pm (except Mondays). These events are free and takes place in the palace courtyard, outside the main complex, so they will draw the crowds. Be prepared for lots of pomp with raucous music and crashing drums. You can also pose for photos alongside some of the guards after the event has finished.
Seoul Museum of Art
Just around the corner from Deoksugung is SeMA – the Seoul Museum of Art, operated by the city council. You can wander through the outdoor sculpture park before exploring the museum to view permanent and temporary exhibitions from contemporary artists. Entry is free.
City Hall
City Hall is just across the road from Deoksugung Palace, a screamingly modern building with a cool exterior and interior – notably the green living wall inside.
You don’t need to spend too long here, it is largely an administrative building but you can use the elevator to visit the upper floors and get a view over the city. It also hosts various exhibitions.
Entry to City Hall is free.
Day 1 Afternoon – Choice of Cookery Class or Seoul Tower
There are a couple of choices, depending on your interests. If you want to learn more about Korean food, we can recommend the Hello-K cookery course. It involves meeting at a set location and joining a small group of like-minded foodies. The afternoon starts with a tour of a local market where your host will introduce a vast variety of ingredients.
Then it’s back to the family home and a cookery class. Everyone gets their own cookery station and we all cooked together. We made bibimbap (lovely ingredients beautifully arranged over rice), pajeon (Korean pancakes), dakgalbi (spicy chicken) and some banchan side dishes.
And then of course you get to eat your delicious meal – no need to worry about finding a place to eat dinner tonight!
Alternatively you could spend the afternoon exploring the lovely park on Namsam Mountain with Seoul Tower, an observation tower at the top. It’s the second-highest point in Seoul. You can hike around the park or catch a cable car.
If you did the cookery course you won’t be hungry, but if not, why not head back to Myeongdong Market where you can shop for all sorts of souvenirs and enjoy some seriously good street food. It’s located near the Sungnyemun Gate.
Four Days in Seoul Day 2 – A Day Trip to the DMZ
No trip to Seoul would be complete without an excursion to the DMZ – the demilitarised zone which demarcates the border area between South Korea and its mysterious neighbour to the north. This tour offers a fascinating insight into modern Korean history.
At the time of visiting, it was not possible to visit the JSA – Joint Security Area – which is the actual border between North and South Korea. However, the DMZ tour is fascinating.
Need to Know: You cannot travel to the DMZ independently – you have to go with a tour. Even if you book a private tour you may travel to the zone in a car but you will still have to get on a coach with a group.
You will need to bring your passport and will have to give it – temporarily – to the tour leader when they obtain your ticket and register you as a visitor. Your passport will be returned and checked by soldiers on entry to the zone and when you leave.
The DMZ Tour
The Peace Park
The first part of the tour takes you to the Peace Park. The park was built in 1972 in the spirit of peace and, hopefully, reunification one day. There are a number of exhibits and memorials here as well as, somewhat curiously, a theme park.
The Freedom Bridge was built as a temporary structure to allow an exchange of prisoners of war in 1953. It is not possible to cross the bridge these days.
There is also a dilapidated steam locomotive that was derailed during the war. Riddled with bullets it has remained in situ for decades, slowly rusting.
You can cross the Imjin river in a gondola and climb the hill to view an exhibition about the war, including a number of foreign countries whose soldiers were involved. We were surprised at the number of British soldiers who fought in the Korean War.
Observing North Korea
Passports are checked before entering the DMZ proper. The next stop is the Dora Observatory where you can use binoculars to look into North Korea. When you gaze into North Korea, North Korea probably gazes back at you.
Sometimes it’s a bit hazy but you can see two villages that are located on either side of the border. The South Korean side is occupied, the North Korean is not – apparently the windows on the buildings are painted on.
The South Koreans who live in this village, so close to the border, do not pay tax, do not have to do military service and have free healthcare.
Third Infiltration Tunnel
The blue line painted on the road marks the official DMZ. The next stop is the Third Infiltration Tunnel. There is an exhibition centre with audio-visual presentation.
You can also go down the third infiltration tunnel. This is one of a series of tunnels constructed by North Korea with the aim of getting 30,000 troops per hour into the South should they decide to invade. Defectors claim that there are ten tunnels but only four have ever been found. We walked down the shaft to the tunnel and through it to the end, about 170m from the border. It’s not too claustrophobic in there. Photos are not allowed inside the tunnel.
This is also a place to buy souvenirs of the visit. One that may be of interest to foodies is a blueberry wine made to a traditional recipe from a North Korean defector.
Four Days in Seoul Day 3 – Palaces and Hanok Villages
Day 3 Morning – Gyeongbokgung and Bukchon
This is the day to go back in time, to the Jongno District in central Seoul, to explore more of Seoul’s palaces and also a traditional Hanok village. Anguk station on Line 3 or Jongno 3 on Lines 1, 3 or 5 are good starting points. This is a long day, with loads of attractions, so you might want to prioritise some over others, so that you can spend more time at the places that are of most interest.
The palaces have a small fee to enter and you can buy a ticket at the entrance. However, if you arrive dressed in hanbok – traditional Korean attire – entry is free. You can hire these clothes in nearby stores. If you love dressing up this is a fun activity. They offer a full range of sizes.
Gyeongbokgung Grand Palace
Start at Gyeongbokgung, another palace with a changing of the guard ceremony. It is the largest of Seoul’s grand palaces and was the primary royal palace of the Joseon dynasty.
Built by King Taejo in 1395, it was destroyed during the Japanese invasion of 1592–1598, restored during the 19th century but destroyed once more by the Japanese at the start of the 20th century. It has been slowly restored since the 1960s.
This is the most impressive of the grand palaces. It has a large number of beautiful buildings set amidst a delightful walled garden complete with pavilions and ponds.
Adjacent to the palace is the Korean Folk museum which is free to enter. This fascinating museum has several permanent and temporary exhibitions showcasing traditional life in Korea.
A Traditional Hanok Village
Moving east, head towards Changdeokgung Palace via the Bukchon Hanok Village. A Hanok is a traditional Korean house. Bukchon means ‘north town’ and this village features over 800 wonderfully photogenic houses. It is visited by a large number of tourists so there are lots of shops and cafes in the area.
It is possible to visit Baek In-Jae’s house (free entry) to learn more about the area and peek inside some of the rooms. He clearly made a lot of kimchi!
It’s important to be aware that people live in these villages and there are signs on some streets asking visitors not to be too noisy.
Day 3 Afternoon – Changdeokgung, Jongmyo and Some Foodie Fun
A quick foodie surprise as we left the village was Hansik Space E:EUM on 18 Bukchon-ro, a museum dedicated to hansik – Korean food. We came across it as we strolled past. There are some interesting exhibitions about ingredients and cooking methods as well as a room full of Korean booze where we got the chance to sample some sochu (a popular Korean spirit). We also managed to find a makgeolli (rice wine) brewing kit which made a fantastic souvenir.
Changdeokgung Palace
The next royal palace is the Changdeokgung Palace, a UNESCO world heritage site. In the early 15th century, the King Taejong ordered the construction of this grand Changdeokgung Palace Complex to complement the main palace of Gyeongbokgung. Changdeokgung is situated at the foot of a hill and the buildings and landscape have been carefully designed to complement the geography of the area. It has a large ‘secret garden’ (extra cost to visit).
Jongmyo Shrine
To the south of Changdeokgung lies the Jongmyo Shrine, a fascinating site that was a former shrine for the internment of the kings and queens of the Joseon dynasty. The entrance fee is nominal and there are guided tours in multiple languages on weekdays. The sign outside indicates when the next tour will be. The tours last around an hour and offer a fascinating insight not only into the shrine and its buildings but also the traditions and practices of the Joseon royal family. Make sure you don’t walk on the raised paths as these are for the spirits alone. (You’re allowed to walk where the kings walked though – only the dead get special treatment.)
Finally, if you have time, head back to The Kimchi Museum – Kimchikan – just off Insa-dong Cultural Street. An essential visit for foodies, it is located on the 4th, 5th and 6th floors of the Insa-dong Maru building. It is open from 10am to 6pm. Korea’s national dish, a food so famous that it is UNESCO listed, is eaten with pretty much every meal. This fascinating and highly interactive museum has exhibits showing the history of kimchi, offers recipes for different types of kimchi and even offers kimchi tasting!
Insa-dong Cultural Street is a good place to seek out restaurants for your evening meal – there are a variety of establishments offering many different types of Korean cuisine.
Four Days in Seoul Day 4 – Art and Museums, Fish Market and A Park
Leeum Art Museum
Catch the subway to the Leeum Art Museum. Line 6 will take you to Hangangjin Station and use Exit 1. Then walk up the hill to the museum. It houses both traditional Korean art (free) and contemporary art exhibitions (which have a fee). Take the lift to the top of the building and then wend your way down, looking at Korean art from across the ages.
The staircase is a work of art in itself.
From Leeum catch Line 6 to Samgakji Station then change to Line 4 for Ichon and the National Museum of Korea.
National Museum of Korea
This splendid museum, set in a large park, is brilliantly designed and gives a comprehensive account of Korea with a wealth of objects all laid out in a way to illustrate the country’s long and rich history.
The upper floors showcase objects from around the world. Entry is free and you really can spend hours here.
Hangul Museum
If you have time, the Hangul Museum is located in the same park. We found this museum fascinating and receommend a visit.
Hangul is one of the few alphabet systems that can actually be dated – it was invented in 1443 by King Sejong the Great, the fourth monarch of the Joseon dynasty. He was a very enlightened leader who wanted to improve literacy amongst the people.
Before the invention of Hangul Koreans used a version of Chinese characters but these weren’t really suited to the language. Hangul is phonetic, consistent and a surprisingly easy script to learn. We managed to pick it up (using visual mnemonics) in a just few hours. It was pretty helpful while we were travelling. The museum is fascinating and well worth a visit. Again, entry is free.
Noryangjin Fish Market
If you’re feeling hungry after all that culture, we recommend a seafood meal at the Noryangjin Fish Market. Back on the subway, take line 4 to Dongjak, then change to Line 9 and the Noryangjin Fish Market stop.
This is one of South Korea’s largest fish markets. The sheer quantity and variety of seafood on offer is astonishing.
There are a range of restaurants upstairs, so you can enjoy a meal of the very freshest fish. If you’re feeling adventurous you can buy fish from the market, take it upstairs and ask a restaurant to cook it. Alternatively you can get a table and the staff will purchase the fish and cook it for you. Many restaurants have instructions in English outside, so that you can understand what deal you are getting. If you bring your own fish you’ll be charged a table fee and a cooking fee, which may be reduced if you also order the restaurant’s own fish soup.
We recommend eating early if you are visiting at the weekend. We arrived at 4:30pm, had a look around and were lucky not to have to wait for a table when we ate at 5pm. By the time we had finished eating, customers were queuing out of the door, many carrying platters of raw fish they had bought in the market. And, even though there were long queues, once we were seated, there was no pressure from the restaurant to hurry.
Yeouido Han River Park
If you have time – and it’s a bit of a convoluted journey considering it’s not that far from the fish market – you can spend the evening at Yeouido Han River Park. It’s a lovely setting right on the riverside. It was made famous (for us) in the film The Host, directed by Bong Joon Ho, which features a giant mutant monster emerging from Seoul’s river. We went to look for the monster later in the evening and are pleased to report that it wasn’t there. Well, at least, we didn’t see it…
Although these four days in Seoul can only really scratch the surface of this amazing city, it is possible to see a diverse range of sights within this time. We can’t wait to return.
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I have not yet visited Korea but your post moved it further up my list. The things that really caught my interest was watching the changing of the palace guard, the DMZ, and the traditional Hanok village. A cooking class is always on my list of things to do! It’s great fun to incorporate new flavours and techniques into my repertoire and I do love a good Korean feast!
Lyn| http://www.ramblynjazz.com
Thank you! We had long been wanting to visit South Korea and we absolutely fell in love when we were there. Seoul has so many things to offer, we are definitely planning to return. Like you, we love doing cookery classes – it’s always great to learn special dishes from a local. We visited the market before we returned home and our bags were heaving with all the foodie goodies we brought back with us!
Super smart breakdown here. We spent a few days in Seoul during a 2 month trip to Songdo, South Korea, last year. Roughly 45 minutes west of the big city, this is one of the first smart cities in the world. I was stunned by the level of technology and how this little city – plus Seoul – seem light years ahead of NYC and other major US cities in tech terms.
Ryan
Thanks so much, Ryan. We adored Seoul. You’re right, it is incredibly hi-tech and smart. We managed to get away without using a sim card in the phone because there was free wi-fi in so many public places. So glad that you enjoyed your time in South Korea. We definitely want to return.
How to find Seoul’s soul? A question that comes in my head so often whenever I read about South Korea’s capital city. I have never been but what I see in the city is how it sits comfortably with technology. Glad you enjoyed the cooking class. I can already imagine the dishes that you will be serving in the UK after this trip. It would be interesting to visit the capital although Busan calls out to me more #flyingbaguette
Jan – https://flyingbaguette.com/
We loved Seoul and you’re so right about it sitting comfortably with its technology. The cooking class was amazing and we learned so much about Korean cuisine. And, fear not, we have a post about Busan planned, as we really loved that city too.
Nice itinerary with a variety of activities that I would like to do when visiting Seoul. I like the selection of free activities as well as guided tours – it shows that you did not only partake in touristy things but also sought out more local experiences. Of course you did a food course and the dishes look incredible. Have you re-made some of these back home? The free entry to the Grand Palace in traditional clothing is intriguing. From your enthusiastic finish I take it you’ll be back one day.
Carolin | Solo Travel Story
Thank you so much! We like to make sure that we can try as many diverse activities as we can when we visit a city – including the freebies. You’re absolutely right, we fully intend to return to South Korea one day!
Seoul and Korea as a whole is on my husband’s short list for places he really wants to visit. This is was really informative for me since I don’t know much about Korea. I can tell you really enjoyed it so I look forward to learning more about the places you’ve mentioned – especially the Grand Palace.
So glad that this was helpful. You’re right, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit and very much want to return. We hope you and your husband get to visit one day!
I’d never given much thought to visiting Seoul, or south Korea, but this is certainly an interesting itinerary with a number of things that got my attention. The cooking class sounds like a great way to learn about Korean cuisine, something I’m not familiar with. I’m also weirdly fascinated by the DMZ tour, although the theme park may be an odd touch. Lots of amazing looking museums and cultural sites around the city, I’m sure I’d find plenty in Seoul to keep me occupied
I’m really glad that there were some activities that piqued your interest. We thoroughly enjoyed Seoul and found a lovely range of things to do. The cooking class was absolutely brilliant and we learned so much about Korean cuisine and etiquette.
I don’t know why, but Seoul has always been part of my travel imagination, perhaps because of its unique culture or the modernity and urban evolution of the city, I have a huge fascination for it. Korea is a country that I have at the top of my wish list.
The itinerary seems very well done, detailed and quite comprehensive, with activities for all tastes.
Thank you! We tried to find a mix of activities. Of course, we could have spent many more days exploring this vast city. It really did combine history, culture and hi-tech modernity. We hope you get to visit one day.