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Places to Visit in Kathmandu, City of Treasures

16th March 2026 / 5 Comments on Places to Visit in Kathmandu, City of Treasures

Kathmandu is the sprawling, bustling capital of Nepal, a place rich with history and culture. The city is not only the gateway to the Himalayas but also to wider Nepal, such as the Chitwan National Park, offering visitors the chance to experience the country’s natural wonders. Although many visitors plan to visit other parts of Nepal, the capital city deserves some of your time. Nepal boasts four world heritage sites, one of which is the Valley of Kathmandu, which itself has seven listed sites. This is our guide for wonderful places to visit in Kathmandu.

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A Brief History of Kathmandu

The Malla Dynasty ruled the Kathmandu valley from 1201 to 1779. It was Jayasthiti Malla (1382–1395), who united the Kathmandu Valley. However in 1482, when his grandson, Yaksha Malla died, the valley was divided amongst Yaksha’s sons and became three kingdoms: Bhaktapur, Kathmandu and Lalitpur(Patan). Each of these kingdoms had a Durbar (royal palace) Square. You can visit each of these squares and they contain the most beautiful temples, statues, and other amazing architectural features.

In 1769, Prithvi Nārāyaṇ Shah, a member of the ruling Gurkha principality, conquered each of the kingdoms. They became consolidated and through this process, Shah founded the modern state of Nepal, establishing Kathmandu as its capital.

Sadly many of the Kathmandu Valley’s wonders suffered significant damage during a powerful earthquake in 2015 – renovation works have been undertaken to restore the architecture and monuments.

How To Get To Kathmandu

Most people fly in. International flights are available from all over the world. The airport is around 5km from the city and it can take around 30-45 minutes to get into the city, depending on traffic. You can arrange a private vehicle, use a taxi or an app, or catch a bus.

How To Get Around Kathmandu

You will need transport to reach all the places to visit in Kathmandu. There isn’t a terrific public transport system. You could hire a car with driver, use apps such as Pathao or InDrive, or take a taxi. Taxis are likely not to be metered, so agree a price beforehand. Check with your hotel about the price you should expect to pay. The cheaper option is to use buses which can be a bit more challenging. Ratna Park Bus Stop is the transportation hub.

The traffic is generally awful, so bear that in mind when moving between locations, as travelling time will eat into your day.

Where To Stay in Kathmandu

The city has plenty of accommodation options to suit all budgets. We stayed at the Traditional Comfort Hotel, a mid-range hotel, a little way from the centre, in a quieter district but not too far from the action. It was possible to walk to Durbar Square in about 30 minutes.

Places To Visit in Kathmandu City

Durbar Square

Durbar Square boasts over 50 monuments, some of which date back to the 12^th century. It is the most fascinating place to wander around – there are so many features to explore. The key sites include the remains of the Royal Palace

And also the home of a living goddess, at the Kumari Bahal.

Home of a living goddess, at the Kumari Bahal Kathmandu

But this is a place simply to wander and admire the details of this fantastic historic site.

Sculpture detail at Durbar Square Kathmandu

Boudhanath Stupa

This is the largest stupa in Nepal, and indeed one of the largest in the world, a pilgrimage site for Buddhists, who make a holy circumambulation.

Surrounding the stupa itself are a maze of temples and shops.

Pashupatinath

This Hindu temple, a sacred shrine to Shiva, is the most important in the Kathmandu valley, and one of the most significant on the Indian Subcontinent. It is located on the banks of the Bagmati river, a holy river that has the same properties as the Ganges, the waters offering a deceased person their journey to the afterlife. Hence this is the most important Hindu cremation site in Nepal. All alongside the river you will see funeral pyres as families perform rituals and say goodbye to their loved ones.

In all honesty, while we found the temple to be fascinating, we did feel a little uncomfortable that we were visitors here. We didn’t want to intrude on a family’s grief. We did see shrouded bodies and the lit pyres by the riverside, the smoke rising across the temple grounds and along the river. It is perfectly fine to visit and the site is listed by UNESCO for its history and religious significance, so this was a very personal feeling for us.

Pashupatinath templt from the hill across the river

Swayambhunath

This beautiful stupa is the most important and sacred of the Buddhist sites in Kathmandu. It’s located a few kilometres from the city.

You walk up a path enveloped in prayer flags, accompanied by monkeys – this is known as the monkey temple – to see the stupa.

Prayer flags and monkeys on the path to Swayambhunath Kathmandu

Monkeys on the path to Swayambhunath Kathmandu

You also get a magnificent view of the sprawling city below. In the small museum nearby, you can see how much urbanisation has taken place since the 1960s.

View of Kathmandu from Swayambhunath stupa

1960s photo showing aerial View of Swayambhunath stupa and Kathmandu

Patan

Another UNESCO site, with its own Durbar Square, Patan is another beautiful historic area. It has a long Buddhist heritage. It’s located around 5km from Kathmandu.

Another world heritage site, Patan was believed to be the capital of the mythical Kiranti Dynasty and associated with Ashoka, the Indian emperor who apparently build the city’s stupas around 250BC. It was one of the most important centres for Buddhism in the 7^th century and was the most prosperous of the three kingdoms at this time. The Malla kings further developed the city during the 17th century. Most of the amazing architecture that remains dates from this time.

Detail of architecture in Patan Kathmandu

Golden Temple

This delightful golden pagoda, dedicated to Shakyamuni Buddha, was constructed in the 12^th century.

Roof top detail at Golden Temple in Patan, Kathmandu

We were lucky to be visiting Kathmandu during the Hindu festival Holi. It was a most joyous occasion – a really friendly and inclusive festival, a celebration of spring and of love. You can read about this wonderful festival of colour, and what to expect if you visit during Holi.

Recommended Overnight Stays Near Kathmandu

Bhaktapur

Although Bhaktapur is only around 13km from central Kathmandu we recommend spending a night here so that you can spend time exploring this exquisite site.

We stayed at the Thagu Chhen Hotel, a boutique hotel with views of Durbar Square. On arrival they asked us to fill in a tick box to select our breakfast options. Instead we asked for a local breakfast – anything would be fine – and they were delighted to cook a delicious brekkie the following morning.

Bhaktapur, another UNESCO site with another Durbar Square, is very, very special. Bhaktapur was established in the 12^th century and became the capital of the Kathmandu Valley Kingdoms for over 300 years, from the 14^th to the 16^th centuries.

The city retains its historic feel. Many of the buildings are centered around the old ponds or tanks which were constructed to store water for drinking, washing and religious ceremonies.

The Fifty-five Window Palace, on the north side of Durbar Square, was once the residence of kings. Although a palace had existed on the site since the 12^th century, the current building was built during the reign of King Bhupatindra Malla in 1697.

Fifty-five Window Palace Bahktapur Nepal

Nyatopola Temple

This five-storey Hindu temple is the tallest in Nepal. Commissioned by Bhupatindra Malla, and constructed over the course of just six months in the early 18^th century, it is over 30m tall.

Bairavanth Temple

Situated on Taumadhi Square, southeast of Durbar Square, this is a three-storey Hindu temple dedicated to Bhairav, the god of both terror and infinite space, and an incarnation of the god Shiva.

The Pujari Math building, was constructed in the 15^th century during King Yaksha Malla’s reign. It contains the exquisitely carved wooden Peacock Window, a thing of great beauty and exceptional craftsmanship. The window is known colloquially as the ‘Mona Lisa of Nepal’. Now, normally these sort of comparisons are rubbish, but we reckon the window is actually better than the Mona Lisa.

equisitely carved wooden Peacock Window in Puri Math building in Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur is a place where you can spend hours exploring its delightful intricacies. The area is also known as a centre for pottery and other crafts.

Neydo Monastery

Just 25km south of Kathmandu, the Neydo Tashi Choeling Monastery is a Tibetan-style monastery where around 140 monks from India and Nepal live and worship.

The monastery has a guest house where visitors are welcome to stay. Meals and board are provided and the monks are happy for you to join them in their morning and evening ceremonies in main hall.

Just enter the temple quietly and sit on one of the mats provided at the back of the room. Naturally no photos are permitted inside the monastery’s hall when prayers are taking place.

Neydo Monastery external hall decoration

There are lots of walks in the area – it’s possible to visit other local monasteries or the Asura Cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated.

Kathmandu for Foodies

Nepali cuisine is delicious. Momos are the national dish. These are delightfully delicious dumplings, basically a flour and water dough filled with meat, vegetables or cheese. They are usually steamed, often over a bowl of flavourful stock, but can also be pan fried or even deep fried. They are often accompanied by a dipping sauce, something akin to a chutney.

Nepal momos are so popular that you will even see fast food dumpling outlets, especially in Kathmandu. These often offer set meals – you can order via a picture menu just as you would at a burger bar. During our trip we had eaten plateful upon plateful of the delicious little darlings, but it was on our last day – in one of these restaurants – that we realised that we had been eating them all wrong!

Maybe it’s because we’re British, we were trying politely to take a delicate bite of a momo each time we ate one. However, a friendly local, who kindly hid his appalled expression when he saw us daintily eating momos, explained that you should always eat them whole.

The reason? As the momos steam the juices from the filling create a little soup inside the dumpling shell. Bite into part of the momo and the soup drains out – lost forever. Eat the whole momo and the flavour of the broth fills your mouth with soupy deliciousness. Just make sure the momos have cooled down a little before scoffing.

A lot of Nepali cuisine is similar to north Indian cuisine, which is a very good thing.

Thalis are a popular meal in Nepal –a thali is a tray containing bowls with a variety of delicious small dishes on top. There will usually be a variety of curries, including vegetable or non-veg curries, and dhal (lentils) as well as pickles. These are usually served with rice. Vegetarians will not go hungry – the veggie food here is amazing.

Masala omelettes with yoghurt and roti (flat breads) make for an amazing breakfast. The masala omelette contains ingredients such as tomatoes, onions, green chillies and garlic with additional spicy flavours. Definitely a superior omelette.

Local specialities from the Newar community of the Kathmandu valley include chatamari which are like savoury pancakes. Rice flour, spices and eggs are used to make a batter then the chatamari is then fried on top of a flat grill. You can have meaty or veggie toppings. Our was a minced meat and onion topping with fried egg and was utterly yummy.

Soybeans roasted in Nepali spices are spicy and crunchy – the perfect snack to drink with local beer.

Final Thoughts

Kathmandu may be the entrance to the wonderful country of Nepal but it deserves a few days of your time. The history is fascinating but the real joy of the city and surrounds lies with the detail and intricacy of the architecture and monuments. Kathmandu is truly a place of treasures.

Just for the Hell of It – The Hells of Beppu

19th February 2026 / 7 Comments on Just for the Hell of It – The Hells of Beppu

The resort town of Beppu, on the north-east coast of the Japanese island of Kyushu, is sometimes known as the ‘Las Vegas of Japan’. Being located in the Pacific ‘Ring of Fire’, hot springs and volcanic activity are found across the country. Onsen are hot springs resorts that are popular all over Japan. As well as soaking in springs or wallowing in warm sand, Beppu also has seven ‘hells’ to explore. Here is our guide to the Hells of Beppu.

Like many comparisons between cities, describing Beppu as ‘The Las Vegas of Japan’ doesn’t make much sense. Some other examples include the lovely colourful district of Gamcheon Culture Village in Busan, which is known as the ‘Machu Picchu of Korea’. Or the historic town of Jajce has the ‘Niagara Falls of Bosnia & Herzegovina’. Or the UK city of Birmingham is known as the ‘Venice of the North’ due to its extensive canal network. We are fairly certain that Venice is not referred to as the ‘Birmingham of the Med’.

Beppu isn’t the glitzy town you might expect, in fact it’s a little bit sleepy these days. But it is most definitely a place to enjoy relaxing in the hot springs. And many of its seven Hells – geothermally active pools and geysers – have the added fun of touristy gimmicks.

How To Get to Beppu

From Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka, you can get the shinkansen to Kokura or Hakata. Then you need to transfer to the Sonic limited express train to Beppu. If you are using the shinkansen you may well benefit from a JR Pass which gives you unlimited access to the Japan Rail trains. Beppu is a long way from Tokyo, so it would be better to spend time exploring Kyushu as part of a longer trip ather than travelling from the Tokyo area. We flew into Osaka and caught the shinkansen into Kyushu from there. We also explored Nagasaki, Kagoshima and Yakushima on that trip.

Where to Stay in Beppu

There are plenty of hotels and ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) in Beppu. We usually stay in cheap business hotels when we visit Japan but we treated ourselves to a stay at the Yamada Bessou ryokan. And, boy, were we glad we did! We had a suite of rooms at the top of the building.

yamada bessou ryokan room with tatami floor

yamada bessou ryokan in beppu the kotatsu in the room

Best of all, they had a rotemburo, an outdoor onsen, which we could use on a private basis – we just booked a half-hour slot on the chalk board at reception for each night. The photo below is a bit dark because we visited in February. But we could bathe in a pool of warm water, looking up at the stars in the crisp night sky. Heaven!

How To Use Onsen

There is an etiquette to using onsen. Many public baths are sex-segregated, so if you are travelling in a mixed gender group you won’t be able to bathe together. This is why the private onsen at our ryokan was so special. (Note that there is a separate – and segregated – area inside the ryokan for pre-bathing washing.)

Tattoos are still considered taboo as they are associated with gangsters. If your tattoo is small, put a sticking plaster over it.

You should always wash before entering the onsen. There will be washing facilities to ensure you can shower beforehand.

How To Visit The Hells Of Beppu

The Hells are located in two areas: five can be found at the district of Kannawa and the other two at Shibaseki.

The easiest way to visit the Hells is to catch a bus from Beppu JR station. Bus numbers 5 and 7 will take you to Kannawa in around 15 minutes. Once you have arrived at the bus stop, you can walk to the Hells.

Then you can catch the number 16/16A bus from Kannawa to Shibaseki. It takes around 5 minutes. This bus will also take you back to Beppu station after your visit. It’s around a half hour journey.
You can read our post about how to use public transport, including buses, in Japan.

There is a fee to visit the Hells. You can pay individually at each entrance, or get a Hells Pass for all of them, which is worth buying if you plan on visiting more than five hells.

Kannawa District Hells

Yama Jigoku

Mountain hell has steaming springs. It also has a small zoo, claiming that the warmth of the springs provides a comfortable environment for some of the exotic creatures. This wasn’t the most inspiring of hells for us.

Umi Jigoku

Sea Hell is named for its turquoise waters that resemble the ocean. It is one of the prettiest hells.

Oniishibozu Jigoku

The gentle plops of volcanic mud bubbling from this hell, which is thought to resemble a bald man’s head. We did try comparing and contrasting with Colin’s bald head. His doesn’t bubble.

mud hell of beppu with boiling, plopping mud

Kamado Jigoku

Meet the demon of the Cooking Pot Hell! Foodies will enjoy tasting various foods from this bubbling cauldron.

the demon statue of cooking hell in Beppu

Eggs boiled in the hot water, served with a pinch of salt, naturally, are a popular snack.

boiling eggs in a basket in cooking hell at Beppu

Shiraike Jigoku

A short walk away, this hell contains milky white water due to the high levels of sodium chloride. It has a manicured garden to wander around as well. We suggest avoiding the small aquarium.

Shibaseki District Hells

Catch the bus to this district to see the final hells – both are worth visiting as they are very different to the other Hells.

Chinoike Jigoku

This is known as the Blood Pond Hell, a beautiful pond filled with blood-red water. It is the prettiest of all the hells.

Tatsumaki Jigoku

This hell is actually a geyser which erupts every half hour or so for up to 10 minutes. Be prepared for the crowds to gather around for the next expected spurt. If you arrive with some time to spare before the eruption, there is a nice wooded trail to wander around before the geyser does its thing.

This hell also has an extensive gift shop for all your Beppu souvenirs.

Other Things To Do In Beppu

One of the best things to do in a resort town is enjoy resort activities. Although you can’t bathe in the Hells, bathing in onsen is a wonderful way to relax after sightseeing. There are many public onsen – to soak in the hot spring water. Sand baths are very popular here too. They comprise pits of sand heated by the natural steam of the area. You get in the pit, get covered with the volcanic sand and simply relax.

beppu onsen street art shwing man and woman bathing and drinking sake

Hyotan Onsen is popular but can get crowded. Built in 1879, Takegawara Onsen is a classic old-school onsen. Some of the onsen do have private bathing facilities at extra cost.

The seafront looks a little tired these days, but you can visit Beppu Tower and get views of the city and seaside.

View of Beppu from its tower showing a shoreline

Beppu for Foodies

At Jigokumushikobo Kannawa on Yasuragi Street you can select meat and vegetables on a tray and then cook them in a basket in the steam from the hells. The words ‘jigoku mushi’ mean ‘hell-steamed’ and this is a popular meal to enjoy when visiting the area.

There are loads of izakaya (Japanese style pubs) in the city which offer a range of foods and a selection of drinks for a fine evening out. As with everywhere in Japan, the seafood is fantastic.

A great foodie souvenir we brought home was Beppu Yuzu Kosho – a paste of fermented yuzu (a type of citrus fruit) peel blended with salt and chilli. It’s a fantastic hot, sour, salty condiment that can be used as an accompaniment to meats and seafood.

Final Thoughts

Although it’s a little off the beaten path, Beppu is a great place to visit when on a trip to Kyushu. It offers a chance for a little R&R on your journey, to slow down and relish the heavenly onsen for a while. But the Hells of Beppu are also great fun to visit, so you can enjoy both sightseeing and relaxation in this town.

Great Grinds & Best Brews – Coffee Around The World

6th February 2026 / 7 Comments on Great Grinds & Best Brews – Coffee Around The World

To many, it might just be a great way to start the day, but a cup of coffee is so much more than a hot, caffeinated drink. In several countries coffee is a way of bringing people together and expressing cultural identity. In fact, it is so important to so many nations that the culture of coffee around the world has been inscribed by UNESCO for multiple countries. And there are lots of exciting ways to brew and serve coffee. This is our guide to some of the world’s best brews.

Where It All Began

Ethiopia Origins

The coffee plant, Coffea Arabica, originated in Ethiopia. Legend tells of a 9^th century goat-herder who noticed that his flock of goats were a lot more lively when munching on the local bushes. When travelling in Ethiopia it is possible to see coffee beans growing wild.

Coffee ceremony is very much a part of the culture in Ethiopia and Eritrea. The whole process can take over an hour. The beans are washed and then roasted on a skillet. Once the skins have burst, they are removed from the fire and ground using a metal stick. They are then placed in a circular clay pot with a rounded base, known as a jebena, and hot water is added. Finally the coffee is served in a cini – a small round cup. Many hotels have coffee ceremony equipment all ready to welcome guests.

This process has been used for many centuries. Coffee ceremony paraphernalia can be seen at the ethnographic museum in Addis Ababa.

Coffees and Chimpanzees in Uganda

Uganda is another producer of coffee, the plant having been introduced from Ethiopia. In fact, after Ethiopia, Uganda is Africa’s second biggest exporter of coffee. Robusta coffee grows in the Kibale forest area. This region is best known for its habituated chimpanzee population, a key attraction for visitors, but it is also possible to visit local villages, and stop by for a very fine brew, with the coffee made in the traditional way.

The coffee berries are dried in the sun and pounded to remove the husks…

…It’s a fine art to blow away the husks to reveal the beans…

…Then it’s time to light the fire and roast the beans…

…Grind and then brew with water for a damn fine cup of coffee. From bean to cup in half an hour. Cheers!

Arabic Coffee – A Symbol of Hospitality

Although the coffee plant originated in Ethiopia it was in Yemen, on the Arabian peninsula, that coffee was cultivated on a commercial basis. It is thought that coffee has been grown commercially since the 16^th century. The port of Mocha was a distribution hub and coffee rapidly spread across the globe. Yemen held a monopoly on the export and distribution of coffee beans. The Ottoman Empire had control of the Yemen at this time. Coffee was initially traded in Cairo then the beans were distributed across the empire.

Omani Coffee, Flavours and Dates

In Yemen’s neighour Oman, and across Arabia, coffee is an expression of hospitality. It is so important to local culture it is UNESCO listed as it expresses generosity and hospitality.

Omani coffee is often flavoured. Brewed with cardamom or even frankincense (a resin from the frankincense tree), these spices add a subtle flavour to the brew. Coffee is traditionally made in front of the guest – from the process of lightly roasting the beans, pounding them in a pestle and mortar and then placing them into a large coffee pot. Water is added and warmed over the fire. Then the coffee is decanted into a smaller serving pot and distributed into small cups.

And, of course, the coffee is served with dates. Date palms are an important part of the Omani landscape – found near water sources, over 200 types of date are grown in the region. Squeeze the date between your fingers to remove the stone before popping it into your mouth. There is usually a vessel to put the discarded stones in.

If you are offered coffee, it is actually polite to decline the invitation initially. This gives your host the opportunity to back down if they aren’t really able to offer coffee at that time. But if they insist, do accept! Cups are small and it is polite to drink between one and three of them.

Turkish Coffee – An Intense Brew

Coffee had reached Istanbul by 1539 and within just a few years the first coffee house opened. It wasn’t long before many more established themselves all over the city and beyond.

This is another coffee culture that is UNESCO listed: The tradition itself is a symbol of hospitality, friendship, refinement and entertainment that permeates all walks of life. An invitation for coffee among friends provides an opportunity for intimate talk and the sharing of daily concerns. Turkish coffee also plays an important role on social occasions such as engagement ceremonies and holidays…

Turkish coffee is coffee to the power of coffee! It is a very different brewing process to many other brews. The roasted beans are ground to an extremely fine powder then added to the coffee pot with water. The coffee is brewed with sugar – so if you go to a coffee shop you will be asked how much sugar you would like in advance. It can be unsweetened (sade kahve), with a little bit of sugar (az şekerli kahve or orta şekerli kahve), or sweet (çok şekerli kahve).

It is boiled until it almost froths over and then served in small cups. Importantly, the grounds are not filtered out. The coffee is always served with a glass of water.

turkish coffee served with glass of water

The best way to drink the coffee is to sip and enjoy the intense flavour. Swirl the cup to redistribute the grounds after each sip.

Don’t consume the sludge at the bottom of the cup. Like tea-leaf readings in the UK, coffee grounds readings can sometimes be used to tell someone’s fortune, making for fun entertainment.

Often the coffee is served with something sweet – Turkish delight, delicious baklava or even rice pudding.

Turkish coffee culture is one of hospitality and sociability – people gather together in coffee houses for drink and lively conversation.

European Coffee – Bitter Coffee with Sweet Treats

Bosnia Coffee

As the Ottoman Empire expanded and flourished throughout Europe, so coffee culture developed with it. The city of Sarajevo was the second most important city in the empire, after Istanbul, so it’s not surprising that coffee quickly made its way into and around Europe. In Bosnia and Herzegovina, an incredibly strong, rich, sweet coffee, served in a set, is the quintessential way to round off a meal.

Like many accompaniments to a hot, bitter brew, a sweet dish is often enjoyed to accompany the beverage. Many Middle Eastern sweets are comprised of pastries doused in a sweet syrup. Hurmasica is no exception, this sweet, gooey cake has a lovely texture and a lemon-flavoured sugar syrup.

Italian Caffè

The words are all so familiar: espresso, cappuccino, americano… and yet Italian coffee doesn’t (yet) have UNESCO status. A failed application earlier this decade has been resubmitted to acknowledge the importance of espresso coffee in Italian culture. It is believed that coffee was imported into Venice in 1580 by Prospero Alpini, a botanist and doctor, and it quickly gained popularity. Although Naples, Italy’s greatest coffee consumer city, has claims that coffee arrived in the city even earlier.

The word espresso derives from the Latin ‘exprimere’ which mean to express, a description of the process by which hot water is forced through ground coffee beans under pressure. The moka pot, una caffettiera, popularised in the 1930s, is a clever design that uses steam pressure from the heat of a stove to force hot water through coffee grounds. Espresso machines serve a similar function by forcing pressurised water through compacted coffee.

Espresso is the basis of Italian coffee. A small shot of intense flavour in a mini cup. If you want more, ask for a doppio, a double. Espresso is the base for the many variations of coffee that are served in Italy. If you’re travelling in the region, ask for ‘un caffè’ rather than ‘un espresso’.

The espresso can easily be turned into a longer drink with the addition of hot water, to make an Americano. Some caffeteria give you the espresso and a jug of water so that you can top up to your desired strength. You may also receive a small glass of cold sparkling water.

A macchiato is an espresso with just a touch of milk, often foamed. The word macchiato means ‘stained’ or ‘spotted’.

Cappuccino is a popular coffee. It comprises equal parts espresso, milk and creamy milk foam in a 1:1:1 ratio. It’s a decadent drink with a luxurious feel. It’s also the prettiest coffee as the crema (coffee oil and brewed coffee) mixes with the foam!

Italians love a coffee, drinking is very much a social event. A coffee shop, called a bar in Italy, is the place to enjoy a coffee, often with a sweet treat. There is always a great choice of coffee available – there are so many variations it can be quite overwhelming – and it is prepared with care. Although apparently if you order a cappuccino after 10:30am, we have it on good authority that you are secretly considered to be a barbarian! And never, ever mention large plastic cups…

Viennese Coffee Houses

Turkiye also had an influence on Viennese coffee houses. It is thought that these were established towards the end of the 17^th century around the time of the Turkish siege of Vienna. The first coffeehouse was apparently established in order to produce coffee for the Hapsburg court, but many more soon followed for ordinary people.

According to UNESCO: The coffeehouse is a place “in which time and space are consumed, but only the coffee is listed on the bill.”

Vienna is justly famous for its coffee culture. There are loads of cafes all over the city which offer coffee and cake. This is an essential foodie activity to enjoy these when visiting this very lovely city. Beware of queues though. At weekends and during the busy tourist season, people will be queuing out the door. Coffee is always accompanied by a glass of water.

Sweet treats are an important accompaniment to Viennese coffee. Sacher Torte is probably the cake most associated with the city, created in 1832 by Franz Sacher for Prince Metternich. The torte is a conventional chocolate cake but has a fruity layer of apricot jam running through the middle.

viennese cake - sacher torte perfect with coffee

Dutch Coffee with Vlaai

It is thought that the Dutch were quick to start trading with Yemen and exporting their coffee. Because of this, it is believed that perhaps Dutch sailors developed the cold-brew method of coffee making because they didn’t have access to fires aboard their ships. This is a process whereby cold or room temperature water is dripped through coffee grounds over a long time, up to 24 hours. This allows the coffee to infuse in the water and produces a beverage with a very different flavour. Cold-brew can be heated carefully in a saucepan or microwave – just don’t let it boil.

Dutch coffee culture is thriving. The Dutch have ‘coffee time’ many times throughout the day. Colin’s family come from Limburg, where the locals are very sociable. This is emphasised by their greeting technique: not one, not two, but three kisses on the cheek. Left-right-left. Or right-left-right. Either is fine. If you visit a local home you will almost certainly be offered coffee and vlaai. Dutch coffee is generally not cold-brew these days but properly made ground filter coffee. Vlaai – also known as Limburgse Vlaai – is a fruit tart.

The vlaai base isn’t made from traditional flaky pastry but from a yeast dough which gives it a light, cake-like texture. Each vlaai comes as a big round disc of deliciousness, usually around 30 cm in diameter. It is cut into large slices for guests to enjoy. The traditional vlaai is a fruit-based tart, often with a latticed pastry top. Cherries, apricots, apple – all sorts of soft fruit can be used as a filling. It may be served with a dollop of rich cream.

And then there are more unusual variations. Berry mouse and meringue is also a great combination. The gooseberry vlaai topped with fluffy meringue is both tart and sweet. The rice pudding vlaai, with cream and chocolate shavings for added decadence, will keep you satisfied for a week.

Tradition dictates that visitors are offered coffee and vlaai and it is polite to accept. Apparently it is also considered to be a little bit rude not to accept a second slice of vlaai. It’s possible that Limburgians have a secret second stomach as it is genuinely impossible to eat two slices of vlaai in quick succession, scrumptious though it is.

Scandinavian Coffee

Scandinavians are well known for their love of coffee. In Sweden, Fika is a word that can be used as both a noun and a verb. It is derived from the old Swedish word ‘kaffi’, spelled backwards. It is all about taking a break to enjoy a hot drink and something yummy to eat. Fikabröd’ (fika bread) is the term used for the accompanying baked goods. It’s more than just a coffee break, fika is about taking a moment to relax with friends and family. And you can fika any time of day or night.

In Finland, one of the more unusual ways to serve coffee is with bread cheese. Bread cheese, or leipäjuusto, is sometimes known as cheese bread or juustoleipä. It’s a firm squeaky cheese that has the texture of Halloumi but is sweet and not salty. Kaffeost comprises cubes of this cheese submerged in dark black coffee. The cheese soaks up the coffee and you can eat the cubes with a spoon. It sounds like an odd combination but it does work.

South East Asian Coffee – Alternative Brews

Coffee in South East Asia offers a very different experience. This part of the world is hot and humid and might not be considered the ideal location for drinking hot beverages. But there are some very interesting caffeinated variations here.

Coffee, But Not As We Know It – Kopi

Kopitams – coffee houses – are very popular in Singapore and Malaysia. Nanyang coffee is known as kopi. The coffee is placed inside a coffee sock – the grounds are inside the cloth sock which acts as a filter – and then brewed inside a kopi kettle. The kettle has a wide opening to accommodate the sock and a long spout for precise pouring. Cups are kept inside a heated bucket to keep them warm.

The Nanyang breakfast is a very special thing and popular in both Singapore and Malaysia. It comprises a really good, strong cup of coffee accompanied with kaya (coconut jam) toast and two very soft-boiled eggs.

Malaysia Opium Coffee

The Malyasian city of Kuching in Sarawak, Borneo, is a UNESCO foodie city and has many delicious charms. It also has an unusual form of coffee at Madam Tan’s Hiap Yak on Lorong Kai Joo. It is called ‘opium coffee’ because you are likely to want more and more…

The coffee itself is rich, dark kopi brewed in the traditional style. But it is served with a large knob of butter! The creamy butter melts slowly into the coffee adding a richness to the brew. Odd, perhaps, but surprisingly delicious. And definitely decadent.

Lao Iced Coffee

When we visited a local barista in Lao’s capital Vientiane we didn’t have very high expectations of the drink we were about to be offered. But we ended up being pleasantly surprised, if totally hyperactive for the rest of the afternoon. Lao Coffee In Five Easy Steps:

Step 1: Make sure you don’t plan to sleep for any time within the next 8 hours.

Step 2: Our barista had a basic coffee filter set up. She brewed a very strong brew…

Step 3: Brewed, of course, into a can of condensed milk which is milk plus, plus, plus: thick, smooth, creamy and outrageously sweet. Yes, that is an entire can of sweet, syrupy, gloopy, delicious condensed milk.

Step 4: Don’t forget that it’s a lovely day. The weather is HOT. Why would you want a hot coffee on a sultry and humid day? Of course you actually want your coffee to be cold! Fill a mug with ice.

Step 5: Pour the delicious coffee/condensed milk mixture on top. If you want a sugar rush on top of the caffeine, add a tablespoon or so of sugar. Stir, then serve.

Bonus: Just in case you aren’t consuming enough calories, why not enjoy some scrummy home-made doughnuts which are a delightful accompaniment to the Lao coffee?

Beats anything by any of the big coffee chains any day of the week. Delish! What was really nice about this experience that after making Ultimate Coffee for us, our barista settled down to eat her lunch inside her house (just beyond the shop front) with her mum. They offered us some to try – it was frog stew: whole frogs in a spicy sauce with lots of fresh herbs. It was very good indeed. Really.

Central and South America – Plantations and Brews

The coffee plant made its way across the Atlantic with the European colonisers in the 18th century. The climate and soil conditions in South and Central America were ideal for the production of coffee and this continent is now the largest bean producer. Both key types of coffee plant can grow here: the Arabica bean grows well in higher altitudes and the Robusta is happier below 750m above sea level.

Costa Rica

In Costa Rica, there’s a saying that ‘life is too short to drink bad coffee’. Costa Rica is one of the world’s coffee producers but, like many of the crops grown in this incredibly fertile country, the aim is to produce quality rather than quantity. The country lies fairly close to the equator so the coffee trees flower all year round.

Costa Rica is fairly close to the equator so the coffee trees flower all year round.

It is possible to visit coffee plantations and see how the beans are processed. Beans are harvested, the outer husk removed

Next the beans are roasted. The roast is what gives coffee its distinctive flavour. Less than 4 mins (not worth the effort) and greater than 26 mins (actually burnt) isn’t any good it but everything in between will offer a slightly different flavour.

What was interesting about the coffee in Costa Rica was the brewing process. Everyone knows that tea leaves should be steeped in water but most coffee processes involve a filtration process where water is forced or filtered across ground coffee beans. But in Costa Rica coffee is often steeped. An eco-friendly solution is to use a rather elegant contraption. The wooden stand called a chorreador and it holds a brewing sock known as a bolsita, which means ‘little bag’. Put the ground coffee into the pot and pour the boiling water on top.

You could probably use a sock inside a teapot but make sure the sock is clean otherwise who knows what sort of caffeinated nightmare beverage you could produce.

We discovered Costa Rica’s love for coffee in every hotel we stayed in. Most hotels around the world offer you a kettle and a selection of sachets of (not at all pleasant) instant coffee. Every hotel had its own filter coffee machine with a coffee bag. Just chuck the bag in the jug, fill the machine with water, let it dribble through and wait a while for it to infuse. It’s rather lovely to be able to have proper coffee whenever you wish.

Final Thoughts

Enjoying coffee is one of life’s great pleasures, especially when on the road. Coffee is so much more than a beverage, it is an inherent part of the culture for so many countries around the world, reflected in the sheer number of UNESCO listings that demonstrate how the heritage of drinking coffee brings people together. What is your favourite brew? Have you ever tried an unusual coffee on your travels? Let us know!

A Bhutan Itinerary – A Magical Week in a Mountain Kingdom

14th January 2026 / 7 Comments on A Bhutan Itinerary – A Magical Week in a Mountain Kingdom

Imagine a country where the king prioritises Gross National Happiness over Gross Domestic Product and there isn’t a single traffic light in its capital city. There are very few countries in the world that can be described as unique, but Bhutan, a tiny kingdom nestled in the Himalayan mountains, has genuinely managed to retain its cultural identity. It is a fascinating place to visit. Our Bhutan itinerary will take you across the mountains to visit beautiful dzongs (fortress-monasteries), hike across spectacular scenery, view the local wildlife and stay with a family on their farm.

This itinerary is for people who like history, culture, nature and hiking. We visited during late February/March so that we could see the black-necked cranes. If you are visiting in the summertime, the cranes won’t be resident, but the Gangtey area is delightful for walking and makes for a great opportunity to explore rural Bhutan.

How To Get To Bhutan

Most people fly into the country’s only international airport located in Paro. There are two airlines Drukair and Bhutan Airlines. You can fly from Nepal, India, Bangladesh, Thailand and Singapore.

There is no public transport at the airport so you will need to use a tour operator or ask your hotel to arrange transport, or you can take a taxi.

It is possible to drive from India at four crossings: Samtse, Phuentsholing, Gelephu and Samdrup Jongkhar.

Most visitors will need a visa to visit Bhutan. The government website has the details.

Notes on Visiting Bhutan

Until very recently it was not possible to travel in Bhutan independently – you would need to find a tour operator who would arrange accommodation and transportation. The most convenient way to get around is to hire a guide and driver. You cannot hire a car and self-drive in this country and you must be accompanied by a guide when visiting certain attractions, even if you are travelling independently.

There are likely plenty of tour operators in your country who can arrange a tour but they will usually subcontract the trip to a local operator. You can usually save money but going direct to a local Bhutanese tour operator. We did use a local tour operator and they were fantastic – our guide was called Dawa and our driver Tring, who were both delightful. One aspect of travelling with an guide was that we would request particular sights and activities, and Dawa could easily arrange them.

Important: Bhutan has a Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) for visitors which currently costs $100 per visitor per day, (50% for children under 12, infants are free). This is on top of your transport and accommodation costs.

The SDF is for the benefit of the Bhutanese people – for healthcare, education and infrastructure, as well as developing the hospitality and tourism industry. However, it does means that Bhutan is an expensive country to visit, so bear this in mind when budgeting for your trip. When we visited there was a high and (cheaper) low season and the cost of the trip was all-inclusive. The Government has made changes to the rules over the last few years and may change things again, so do check the latest news on the fees.

A Bhutan Itinerary

Day 1 Arrive Paro (Paro 2195m, Thimphu 2320m)

We flew in from Kathmandu. It takes around an hour and fifteen minutes to arrive by air. If you ask to sit on the left side of the plane when you check in, you are likely to see Mount Everest. The flight into the small landing strip is spectacular – you can almost feel the aeroplane’s wings touching the tips of the mountain tops as it glides between the peaks.

Mount Everest from the air flying in to Bhutan

The plane lands in Paro. After passing immigration, transfer to the capital, Thimpu, a 54km journey of about 45 minutes. Our first stop was a visit to the National Memorial Chorten, built in honour of Bhutan’s third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. It is a beautiful gleaming white stupa.

National memorial Chorten stupa, Thimpu Bhutan

The Simply Bhutan Museum is a fantastic interactive museum showcasing life in Bhutan. It is set up as a home with traditional tools and implements, including demonstrations of how they are used. You can even try your hand at archery.

Bhutan itinerary Simply Bhutan museum traditional implements

Bhutan itinerary Simply Bhutan museum - chillies drying in the windows

Look at the chillies drying in the windows! These are a staple food in Bhutan and form a part of the national dish.

At Great Buddha Dordenma at Buddha point, Kuenselphodrang, is a huge Buddha statue which was constructed to celebrat Bhutan’s fourth king, Jigme Singye Wangchuck.

If there is time, later in the evening it may be possible to visit the Tashichhoe Dzong, seat of the Royal Government of Bhutan and summer residence of the chief abbot.

We stayed at the Khang Residency, a pleasant suburban hotel.

Day 2 Thimphu to Punakha (71 km, 2.5 hrs, 1310 m)

Depart from Thimphu and head towards the gorgeous Punakha valley. The road climbs through a delightful forest and then crosses the Dochula pass (3050m) which affords amazing views across the mountains. There is a tea house here, and it’s a great opportunity to stop for a break.

The road then follows a number of hairpin bends into the Punakha valley. Punakha Dzong is one of the country’s most important monasteries – the second oldest and the second largest in the land. Punakha was the country’s former capital and is located at the confluence of the Pho Chu (male) and Mo Chu (female) rivers.

After the long drive, we enjoyed walking by the river.

We also visited the suspension bridge, the longest in the country which crosses the Po Chu river, and where hundreds of colourful prayer flags flutter in the breeze and guide the way across.

prayer flags fluttering on he Po Chu river bridge

The Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang is a meditation and training centre for nuns who live and work here – training in various arts. The hilltop location overlooks a delightful pine-covered valley. It is possible to visit the centre.

We stayed at Meri Puensum, set on the mountainside overlooking the gorgeous valley.

Day 3 Explore Punakha

We spent the morning visiting the dzong. You can read our detailed post about Punakha Dzong. We were lucky to be visiting on the King’s Birthday and the local people celebrated with singing and dancing. It was a delightfully happy atmosphere and everyone was really friendly.

Then we moved on to walk around to Chimmi Lhakhang, a temple dedicated to the Devine Madman. It’s a place where people come to pray for children. There’s no doubt that the temple is all about promoting fertility!

One thing we had particularly wanted to do on our trip was to stay with a local family and learn to cook with them.

We enjoyed visiting the farm and making dinner with our lovely hosts at the Chimi Lhakhang Farm stay.

Day 4 Punakha to Gangtey (71km, 3 hours, 2900m)

After a hearty breakfast at the farm stay, we hit the road for a trip to Gangtey. The key attraction for this valley is that famous for the elegant black-necked cranes that visit each winter. The country is home to around 600 cranes – they migrate from the Tibetan Plateau and can be seen from November to March.

On the way, we visited Gangtey Gompa, a 16^th century monastery.

Then we took a walk through the lovely Phobjikha valley on its nature trail.

We walked downhill through the meadows and into Semchubara village and then through the forests.

We then visited the black-necked crane sanctuary to see where injured and rescue cranes are rehabilitated. There is also an information centre which has infographics about the cranes as well as a great view over the valley. Binoculars are available to watch the cranes.

We stayed overnight at hotel Dewachen in a large, comfortable room, with its own heating stove.

Day 5 Gangtey to Paro (196km, ~6 hours, 2250m)

This was our long drive back but we stopped off at a number of places along the way. We spent time in the valley, in the morning, spotting wild cranes.

An archery tournament was taking place in the area. Archery is Bhutan’s national sport and competitions last all day. Archers take it in turns to hit brightly painted wooden targets from 145m away. We were astonished at the distances and the accuracy of the archers. When the target is hit, the archers perform a short celebratory dance and pick up a silken cloth as a prize. As the day progresses, the wind picks up in the valley, making the target even more difficult to hit.

Bhutan itinerary - an archery tournament showing an archer dressed in traditional costume taking aim

For reference, the standard Olympic distance is 70m! The tournament is as much about social interaction as it is about the competition. The image below gives an indication of range – the target is on the left side of the picture, just next to the tree in the distance, where the group of people are standing.

Bhutan itinerary - an archery tournament showing the distance from archer to target

After passing the Dochula Pass, we arrived back at Thimphu and stopped off to visit the Simtokha Dzong, a 17^th century fortress and former monastery, strategically located on a ridge above a deep gully. It was built by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, who unified Bhutan and is the first of its kind built in this country.

Simtokha Dzong fortresss in Thimpu Bhutan

Then the itinerary continues to Paro. We enjoyed an archery lesson at the local range. These are very easy to arrange and there are centres all over the country. Naturally we were hopeless!

Day 6 Paro – Tiger’s Nest Trek (up to 3180m)

The highlight of any trip to Bhutan is a hike to the stunningly beautiful Taktsang monastery, known as the Tiger’s Nest. This amazing construction, clinging to a hillside, is sited at the location where Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), the founder of Buddhism in the country, reputedly flew on the back of a tigress in the 8^th century.

Even though it looks quite dramatic, the hike should be possible for anyone who has reasonable fitness levels, although you are trekking at altitude, over 3000m, which makes the walk literally breathtaking. The reason for the hike taking place at the end of this Bhutan itinerary is to ensure that you have enough time to acclimatise to the altitude during the preceding days. We have a detailed post about what to expect on the Tiger’s Nest hike.

In the afternoon, visit Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in Bhutan. It is one of 108 temples which were constructed in a day by the extremely productive Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo, in an attempt to protect against a wicked demoness. Apparently the orange trees are always in fruit.

Later in the evening we visited a typical Bhutanese farmhouse and met the farmer who made us dinner and offered arak, the local tipple.

Day 7 A Fond Farewell

Time to leave this marvellous country and catch the flight back to Kathmandu. If you have time, there may be an opportunity to visit the national museum, Ta Dzong, which was built as a watch tower for the Paro Dzong. The Dzong itself is an administration centre and education centre for monks. Or you could enjoy a walk along the river.

Don’t forget to look out for Everest on the way home.

Bhutan for Foodies

Prepare for your tastebuds to be tantalised. The quintessential Bhutanese dish is ema datshi – chilli cheese! In Bhutan chillies are used as vegetables, rather than a spicy flavouring. Chilli cheese is super-hot but the cheese does help mitigate the heat. It is kind of addictive.

Rice is a staple – usually red rice, which has a nutty flavour. Meat is eaten widely and is often dried for storage. Yak, beef, pork and chicken are all popular dishes. Meat is often stewed. We enjoyed shakam paa, which comprised dried beef cooked with chillies and radish slices, spiced with dried chillies. Vegetarians can enjoy khewa datshi, which comprises sliced potatoes with cheese.

Bhutan meal rice, chilli cheese, shakam paa, which comprised dried beef cooked with chillies and radish slices, and cheesy potatoes

The local tipple is called arak. It’s a clear liquor, usually made from rice or maize. Bhutan also makes whiskey and you can pick up a bottle at the airport. It may not rival any of Scotland or Japan’s finest malts but it’s an interesting and quaffable drink – definitely one to add to the list for whiskey fans seeking alternative flavours.

Final Thoughts

There is no doubt that Bhutan is an expensive country to visit. But it is a wonderful place to discover, a country that fiercely protects its heritage and culture, all set amidst spectacular mountain landscapes. The fee for visitors goes directly towards making life better for its citizens. Although the high cost may put off some travellers, we strongly recommend visiting if you can.

What To See in Muscat in One Day

3rd January 2026 / 8 Comments on What To See in Muscat in One Day

Muscat is the gleaming capital city of Oman. Situated on the coast of this remarkable country, Muscat has plenty of attractions – from its grand mosque to fascinating forts and bustling souks. It seamlessly blends history with modernity. We spent a day here during our week long trip to Oman. This is our guide for what to see in Muscat in one day.

How To Get To Muscat

Many people fly into Muscat airport which is located to the west of the city. Depending on where you are staying, it could take between ten minutes to half an hour to reach your accommodation.

It is possible to drive to Muscat from Dubai if you are coming from the UAE. The journey takes around four and a half to five hours.

How To Get Around Muscat

Muscat is a huuuuuge city and you need transportation to get around. We recommend hiring a car because that gives you flexibility to see the various sites at your leisure. Petrol is almost certainly much cheaper than your home country. There is usually plenty of parking, and a lot of it is free, although some locations have started to charge.

Taxis are available but they aren’t particularly cheap. They can be recognised by their orange and white livery. They aren’t usually metered, so agree a price for your trip beforehand.

Muscat does have a bus network if you want to use public transport and you can hop between all the tourist attractions as well as the airport. This is the cheapest way to get around – you shouldn’t pay much more than 1 OMR and that would be travelling from the airport to the far side of the city. Pay the driver in cash for the distance travelled, defined by zones.

Where to Stay in Muscat

We recommend staying in Mutrah. It’s a lovely district set by the sea and has a charming Corniche to wander along. There is a large souk (market) and plenty of restaurants in the area. We stayed at the Hotel Nasseem, which was located near the fish market. Some of the rooms have a sea view.

What To See in Muscat in One Day

Muscat has loads of sights to explore. It probably won’t be possible to see everything in one day, but here we list the essential places and you can pick which most appeal to you. Although some of the attractions are several kilometres apart, if you have transportation it won’t take more than 20 minutes to half an hour to get from one place to another.

Morning in Muscat

Mutrah Fish Market

If you are staying in Mutrah it’s worth popping into the fish market, located in a modern wavey building at the port end of the Corniche.

The traders are lovely and very happy for you to visit and check out the catch of the day.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

We recommend visiting the Grand Mosque for your next activity. It’s located around a 20 minute drive from Mutrah and is only open to non-Muslim visitors from 8am to 11am, Saturday to Thursday. It is closed on Fridays. If you are driving, it has a huge car park.

The Grand Mosque was built by Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the father of the nation, who ruled Oman for 50 years. He was hugely respected and is credited with modernising the country. It is the largest mosque in the country and can accommodate 20,000 worshipers.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Oman - What To See in Muscat in One Day

It lives up to its ‘grand’ moniker – it is a remarkable complex. The men’s prayer hall is vast, with a carpet that weighs 21 tonnes and which took four years to make. The main chandelier is 14m high, set within a 90m dome, and contains 600,000 crystals.

Grand mosque prayer hall interior with huge chandeliers

At the time of writing, entry is free. However this may change soon and entrance fees may cost around 8 OMR. Attire is extremely important. Visitors are expected to dress modestly. For men, this means wearing long trousers and a shirt to cover your shoulders. Women should wear long trousers or a long skirt, down to the ankles, and a long-sleeved top. Hair must be covered. There are guards at the entrance who will not let you in if your attire isn’t appropriate. You will also need to remove your shoes to enter some of the buildings and prayer halls, so bear that in mind when selecting footwear.

Return to Mutrah

If you wish, you could make your way back to Mutrah via the Natural History Museum or the Royal Opera House. Or you could spend the rest of the morning exploring Mutrah.

Mutrah Fort

This is a small fort on top of the hill overlooking the harbour and Corniche. It is thought that it was built in 1507 but was apparently fortified by the Portuguese during their occupation of Oman in the 1560s.

The fort was built for observation and defense but has a great view of the shore. It also has a small café where you can get coffee or juice on a hot day. The fort is open all day, from 8 am–11 pm. Entry costs 3 OMR. There’s a bit of a climb up the steps but there are fans mid-way to help you cool down on a hot day!

Place and People Museum

At the foot of the hill where the fort is located, this museum offers an exhibition of rooms showcasing traditional life in Oman from the 1950s. It is open from 9am to 6pm and costs 2 OMR to visit.

It also has a small art gallery where you can view the works of local artists.

People and places museum typical Omani room in Mutrah

If you are seeking some lunch, you can enjoy snacks at Mutrah fort or, if you want something more substantial, take your pick from the many cafes and restaurants lining the Corniche.

An Afternoon in Old Muscat

Old Muscat is located around 5km beyond the corner of Mutrah’s Corniche. It’s perfectly walkable but the weather is hot, even in winter, so we’d recommend driving unless you really like walking in the heat.

Old Muscat is a lovely area to visit. It is the administrative section of the city and many governmental departments are located here. It’s clean and gleaming and everything is neat. There is plenty of parking available and a number of attractions to visit here.

Al Mirani Fort

The Al Mirani fort is located on the coastline. There was an ancient fort prior to the invasion of the Portuguese but was rebuilt in 1587. It was the first in Oman to use cannons. Throughout our trip around Oman we noted many cannons at fortresses – which were from all over the world.

If you’re interested in forts, the Al Jalili fort on the headland was also built by the Portuguese.

Al Alam Palace

A colourful palace built for the Sultan and the place where he entertains honoured guests. You can’t enter the building but you’ll be able to admire it from the gates.

National Museum

The National Museum is well worth a visit. It showcases Omani history and culture, as well as Oman’s interactions with nations across the globe.

sultan's thrones in the national museum in Muscat

Oman has a proud seafaring history and boats were used to transport goods, particularly coffee, around the world. Omanis were – and still are – skilled boat builders. Dhows continue to be constructed at shipbuilding yards on the coast in Sur.

What To See in Muscat in One Day dhow exhibit in muscat national museum

Open 10am to 5pm except Fridays. Entrance is 5 OMR for adult visitors under 60 years.

Spend the Evening in Mutrah

Mutrah is a great place to hang out in the evening. As the heat of the day wanes to a balmy night, people will come out to stroll along the Corniche.

We recommend visiting the souk – just off the Corniche – in the evening. It is open from 9 am–1 pm but if you are sightseeing in the morning, you won’t have much of a chance to browse until it closes for the afternoon.

It’s open again from 4–10 pm, giving you plenty of opportunity to shop until you drop. You can buy all sorts of goods here – frankincense and spices were of particular interest for us.

Muscat for Foodies

There are loads of restaurants and cafes along Mutrah’s Corniche to suit all budgets. Middle Eastern food is just sublime. There are lots of mezze options to enjoy. Vegetarians won’t go hungry, one of the joys about food from this region is that there are so many veggie and vegan options available.

If you enjoy seafood, we recommend Aroos Al Bahar fish restaurant – at the far end of the Corniche, just opposite the fish market. We had a splendid meal here. We chose our seafood at the counter, which was then weighed and whisked directly to the kitchen to be cooked.

fish options at fish restaurant in muscat

breads, salads and dips at fish restaurant in mutrah

Dips such as hummus and baba ganoush and za’atar herbed breads turned it into a feast!

Oman is a Muslim country and therefore residents do not drink alcohol. It is not illegal for tourists to drink but alcohol is difficult to source and is expensive. So we decided that when in Oman, we’d do as the locals do, and had a dry week. Finding lovely drinks is never a problem. Oman is famous for its coffee culture, a symbol of hospitality. And on a hot day, there are always a plethora of juices, smoothies and mocktails to enjoy. We weren’t so keen on the mocktails, where flavours were combined with a can of fizzy pop. But we really loved the fresh fruit juices and smoothies.

Final Thoughts

Muscat is a lively and vibrant city with a plethora of places to see. Spending a day in the capital offers the opportunity to get to know the history and culture of this lovely country.

Resources To Help You Plan Your Trip

Accommodation in Mutrah

Rental cars to hire a car.

Coastlines, Castles & Crab – Things to Do on Guernsey

28th November 2025 / Leave a comment

The lovely Channel Island of Guernsey is just an hour away from the UK but feels like a different world. Located closer to France than England, this small island is part of the British Isles but not in the UK, has its own laws, and is a fantastic place for a getaway.

Where is Guernsey?

Guernsey is one of the Channel Islands – a UK archipelago in the English Channel, that is located closer to France than to England, just off the coast of Normandy. It’s nearly 120km from the south coast of England and just 32km from France.

When To Visit Guernsey

The island can be visited all year round, although some attractions are only open during the summer season – usually from April to October. The weather is generally milder than the rest of the UK, but can be as variable as the rest of the country. Although there are lots of outdoor activities, this guide also recommends plenty of things to do on a rainy day.

How To Travel To Guernsey

Many people fly into Guernsey, using the island’s airline Aurigny (pronounced Aur-eeny). You can fly from many regional UK airports.

There are ferries from Poole, Portsmouth and Jersey in the UK and from St Malo in France. If you wish to bring your car, car ferries are available and this will give you the flexibility to drive on the island as well.

How To Get Around Guernsey

Guernsey isn’t a large island so it doesn’t take long to get from location to location. Many of the roads are narrow and driving is slightly different to the mainland. Cars are available for hire. Driving is on the left, as in the UK. You can also hire a bicycle or walk. And there is a bus network if you prefer to use public transport.

Where To Stay in Guernsey

Guernsey has lots of accommodation options. Most of the hotels are located in the capital St Peter Port but there are also some dotted throughout the island. If you are on a budget, there are B&Bs as well as plentiful self-catering accommodation and camping/glamping options.

Enjoy the Great Outdoors

Enjoying Beach Time

With gorgeous sandy beaches, crystal clear turquoise water, rocky outlets for rockpooling, Guernsey is the perfect ‘bucket and spade’ destination. The southern side of the island is best for the beaches. Cobo bay is a perfect beach for spending time with the family. Fermain Bay, Port Soif and Ladies Bay are also great beaches that are family friendly. The west side of the island generally has the easiest beaches to reach.

Cliff Top Walks and Secluded Beaches

For those seeking a bracing walk along the clifftops with spectacular views, Guernsey has a wealth of options. The cliffs are mainly located along the southern coast.

There are some lovely beaches to explore and, because they are a littler harder to reach, much more private and secluded. Le Jaonnet Bay and Petit Port (accessible down 270 steps) are great options. Be aware that some of the beaches here won’t have facilities, so bring a picnic.

Saumarez Park

Guernsey’s largest park is a wide open space. It has plentiful grounds and gardens, as well as a lovely lake. There is a child-friendly playground and local events are frequently held here. Rte de Saumarez, Guernsey GY5 7UJ

Guernsey has loads of organised activities to offer.

Explore Guernsey’s History

Castle Cornet

An imposing structure at the entrance to St Peter Port’s harbour this 800 year old castle houses four museums and four historic gardens all showcasing the fort and Guernsey’s military history. If you are around at midday, you will hear the Noonday gun.

Folk and Costume Museum

Located within the grounds of Saumarez Park, this National Trust site has interesting displays showcasing Guernsey’s history, particularly with respect to the fishing and agriculture industries. It also has displays of many local costumes.

Museum of the Occupation

The Channel Islands were the only part of the UK that were occupied during World War 2 and the legacy of the occupation can be seen all over Guernsey and the other islands.

There are all sorts of exhibits, from an enigma machine to a fire engine. The museum offers a really fascinating insight into live on Guernsey during World War 2. Its address is Les Houards Forest, GY8 0BG.

enigma machine at guernsey museum of the occupation

fire engine at guernsey museum of the occupation

Underground Hospital

The Guernsey Underground hospital on La Vassalerie (GY6 8XL) is the largest structure built during the occupation. The extensive tunnels – 1.4 miles in total –housed munitions stores and functioned as a hospital.

There are also some WWII Occupation Trails throughout the island where you can see some of the structures constructed during the war.

Fort Grey at Rue de la Lague on the west coast is known as the Cup and Saucer and houses the Shipwreck Museum. The waters around the Channel Islands are notoriously dangerous for ships and this museum showcases artefacts from shipwrecks from across the centuries.

The Guernsey Museum and Art Gallery

Located at Candie gardens in St Peter Port, this museum offers multiple exhibitions showcasing Guernsey’s history and folklore.

It also has a small art gallery exhibiting paintings of the island as well as art from local and international artists. And there’s a statue of Victor Hugo in the gardens.

Museums, Stately Homes and Art Galleries

Renoir Walk

Pierre-Auguste Renoir visited Guernsey in 1883 and painted some scenes from Moulin Huet Bay, which is located near St Martins. It is possible to walk in the area and view the scenes that he painted through specially designed frames.

Victor Hugo House

Did you know that Victor Hugo was exiled to Guernsey and wrote most his most famous work, Les Miserables, there? You can visit his home in St Peter Port – Hautville House.

Stately Home and Sculpture Park

Sausmarez Manor is a stately home in Saint Martin. It also has a sculpture park to wander around.

You can read more details in our post about art and literature activities in Guernsey.

Quirky Guernsey

Little Chapel

In the Les Vauxbelets valley, Saint Andrew the Little Chapel is one of Guernsey’s most popular attractions. It was constructed by Brother Déodat in 1914, who initially planned to create a miniature version of the grotto at Lourdes. It is decorated in a mosaic style with shells, broken crockery and pebbles, giving it a colourful appearance.

Despite its tiny size, you can go inside the chapel.

entrance to the little chapel in guernsey

Blue Post Boxes

Everybody knows about the UK’s red post boxes. Did you know that Guernsey’s post boxes are blue? Keep an eye out for them around the island.

Visit Some of the Other Islands in the Bailiwick

Herm

The charming island of Herm, visible from the harbour of St Peter Port, is just a short 20 minute boat ride away. Herm is beautiful – with plentiful walks and lovely beaches. Don’t miss the lovely (relatively) long Shell Beach. If you’re lucky you may also see puffins!

Sark

Sark is a strange little island. Only accessible by sea, there are no cars on the island, so you have to explore this rural delight on foot, by bike or by horse and cart. If you are interested in astronomy, Sark is a Dark Sky island due to the lack of street lights.

Alderney

Alderney is a bit further away. You can reach it by air or boat. Planes fly 2-3 times each day, so although you could visit on a day trip, it would be quite an expensive day trip, so we recommend staying for a night or two. Alderney is the third largest (or smallest) of the Channel Islands (the second largest in the Bailiwick of Guernsey).

It is a beautiful island with gorgeous beaches, stunning clifftops, lovely walks, and the Channel Islands’ only railway, which runs for visitors during the summer season. Yes, those are London Underground carriages!

You can walk around Alderney in a day – you can read our guide to this delightful walk.

Guernsey For Foodies

There are many excellent restaurants all over Guernsey, with a concentration in St Peter Port. Being an island, Guernsey’s seafood is something special. Make sure you grab as much crab as you can! The local crab and lobster are sweet, juicy and huge! These are some of our favourite dishes:

Some restaurants offer a seafood platter: local crab, prawns, crevettes, and excellent smoked salmon, all served with sourdough and marie rose sauce.

Its dairy industry is also thriving – Guernsey cows produce rich, creamy milk, so you can enjoy delicious butter and local ice creams.

Every October the island holds Tennerfest – a foodie festival where many restaurants offer cheap set menus often featuring local produce. Alas, no longer a tenner (£10) these still represent excellent value for money. If you plan to eat at a restaurant during Tennerfest, make sure you book in advance.

Final Thoughts

Guernsey is a wonderful island to visit and the most accessible in its Bailiwick. It has such a variety of things to do as well as lots of outdoor activities, so your trip can be as active or relaxing as you like. If you get a chance to visit some of the other islands, we recommend doing so – they are really lovely.

Resources To Help You Plan Your Trip

Find accommodation options in Guernsey

Rent a car to travel around the island.

A Grand Nova Scotia Itinerary

11th November 2025 / 8 Comments on A Grand Nova Scotia Itinerary

Nova Scotia, the peninsula on Canada’s east coast, is a wonderful place to visit, with picture-perfect landscapes and seascapes, interesting towns and cities, lots of exciting outdoor activities, and a food scene that can only be described as spectacular. It is the perfect location for a road trip. Although distances between locations can be long, driving is relaxed and easy on roads that are rarely congested. There are plenty of places to stop along the way, to see local landmarks or Nova Scotia’s charming lighthouses, which makes the trip as much about the journey as the destination. Here’s our Nova Scotia itinerary.

When To Visit Nova Scotia

The peninsula can be visited all year round but May to September are widely regarded as the best times, with July and August being the peak tourist season. Autumn is a popular time to visit when the leaves on the trees are turning to display glorious colours but some attractions may close as early as late September. Activities such as whale watching will be dependent on the weather and even if you book in advance, trips may be cancelled at short notice.

Getting to Nova Scotia

Most international visitors will fly into Halifax airport. There is an arrivals procedure to ensure that you aren’t bringing prohibited goods into the country.

Process: On entering the immigration area, before you show your passport, go to the machine with all members of your party. Answer the questions on the screen. You will need to declare any food. If you only have sweets/biscuits and that won’t be a problem, but fruit/meat/cheese is not allowed and will be confiscated. Get a receipt and proceed through immigration. Keep the receipt after you have collected your luggage and hand it in.

Many visitors travelling from Canada/USA may drive across or catch a ferry from the mainland. You can drive from New Brunswick on Trans Canada Highway 104. And there are ferries from Maine to Yarmouth, Saint John (New Brunswick) to Digby, and Prince Edward Island to Caribou.

Getting Around Nova Scotia

The easiest way to get around is to rent a car. As Europeans we found the cars to be enormous, certainly compared with the cars we are used to driving. However, the roads are very wide, largely clear of traffic and the parking spaces are big as well. We found that fuel costs were much cheaper than at home.

If you don’t fancy driving, there are public bus services between Halifax and the major regions, which will allow you to reach many of Nova Scotia’s loveliest areas.

There are also several guided tours and day trips to places such as Lunenburg and the Annapolis Valley from Halifax.

Nova Scotia Itinerary

Our itinerary is very flexible. We generally stayed in each location for a day or two. This trip took us two weeks to complete but you could add more days if you wish. The minimum time to do this itinerary would be around 10 days.

Halifax

We start our trip in Halifax, Nova Scotia’s laid-back capital city. The waterfront is a lively district with loads of restaurants and bars.

There are plenty of things to do in Halifax. The Citadel, strategically positioned on top of the hill overlooking the harbour, offers a social and military history of the city.

By the waterfront there are a number of museums which are definitely worth a visit. The Immigration Museum at Pier 21 offers a fascinating history of immigrants who came to Canada. There are regular guided tours.

Museum of immigration display of food for immigrants

immigration train at Halifax immigration museum

Immigrants arriving at Halifax were offered a selection of food and were then put onto a train to be transported all over Canada to start their new lives.

The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic has a comprehensive history of seafaring in the area, from small boats to ocean liners. It also tells the story of the catastrophic Halifax explosion in 1917, an event that had a massive impact on the people of Halifax. The city also has a connection with the Titanic, being the closest seaport to where the ship sank. Whereas the survivors went on to New York, those deceased whose bodies were recovered were taken to Halifax. There is a Titanic graveyard in the city for some of the victims of the disaster.

Halifax Accommodation: We stayed at Garden South Park, a 20 minute hilly walk from the waterfront. They have parking facilities which cost $15 per day.

Halifax Food: Make sure you try Halifax donair (below left) – a curious meat kebab in a wrap, featuring a sauce made from condensed milk, of all things. Savoury and surprisingly super-sweet, the jury’s out with us but you should definitely try it. Poutine (below, right) is another Canadian classic. Chips (fries) smothered in a rich gravy and topped with cheese curds, is most definitely a delicious comfort food.

There are loads of craft beer establishments in the city. We recommend the Garrison, where you can enjoy a tasting of all their fine beers.

Just don’t end up like the local lamp posts!

Lunenburg (100km from Halifax)

Stop by Peggy’s Cove lighthouse on your way to Lunenburg. It is the most touristy lighthouse in the region and often very busy. But it is very pretty. As you travel around the coast, you will see a number of these charming lighthouses.

Then drive on to Lunenburg, a very colourful town with a pretty harbour and a UNESCO world heritage site.

nova scotia itinerary - panoramic view of Lunenburg

It has an excellent Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic where you can learn all about the sea life in the area and the fishing industry. The museum has loads of friendly guides and offers talks about various subjects, including lobster fishing.

You can visit a schooner to see what life aboard was like.

If you are spending some time in the area you can arrange a trip on the Bluenose II – a replica of the famous fishing schooner the Bluenose.

Lunenburg Accommodation: The Rum Runner Inn offers comfortable accommodation. Be aware that street parking must be paid for until 5pm. We parked in the main car park on the shore front and then moved the car closer to the accommodation in the evening when we checked in.

Lunenburg Food: The seafood is amazingly good. There are so many fantastic seafood restaurants in the town – just take your pick. Don’t forget to enjoy a lobster dinner here. Even the local Subway offers lobster rolls at a very good price! The Grand Banker Bar & Grill offered lobster mac ‘n’ cheese and the Lunenburger – a smashed beef patty with lobster and a scallop. Note that lunchtimes are likely to be busy as there will be a lot of day trippers from Halifax visiting.

Yarmouth (230km from Lunenburg)

On the way to Yarmouth, make sure to stop off at the L’Acadie, the Historic Acadian Village of Nova Scotia. The Acadians were the French settlers who settled here during the 17^th and 18^th centuries.

This is a highly interactive museum, where you can visit traditional buildings and learn about Acadian life. There are blacksmith and boat-builder demonstrations too.

blacksmith demonstration at acadian museum

Food: The ladies in the café are absolutely delightful. Make sure you enjoy a portion of rappie pie, a grated potato and chicken dish, served with molasses and butter. It’s a traditional Acadian meal and is really delicious.

Yarmouth itself is a small town with a waterfront and couple of museums. We recommend a visit to the Cape Forchu lighthouse (road 304 off Route 1) where you can climb to the top to get a view of the seascape. The local area has a nature trail to explore as well.

Digby (100km from Yarmouth)

Take the Evangeline Trail (route 1) to Digby. Make sure to stop off at the delightful Gilbert Cove lighthouse en route. It has a friendly welcome and a small museum.

Digby is a small town at the top of the Digby Gut which links to the Bay of Fundy. Whale watching expeditions into the bay are popular here. Be prepared for the weather to scupper your plans, so if you are able to spend more time in the area and can be flexible with your timing, you have a better chance of being able to enjoy the excursions.

If you can’t get out whale watching, there are some coastal walks on the area. The town of Digby itself is small but has a couple of museums and a cute lighthouse.

Foodies should definitely include Digby on their itinerary as it is the scallop capital of the world! Make sure to scoff as many of these delectable, juicy shellfish as possible.

Digby Accommodation: Come From Away B&B was a lovely place to stay – an old family house with big rooms and a great brekkie.

Digby Food: The Crow’s Nest is a great place to get seafood, especially the scallops. Make sure to check out their chowder too. It can get busy, so we recommend booking.

And, we don’t really have a sweet tooth, but Ava’s Sweet Treats had a range of excellent desserts. It’s not often your expectations are exceeded, but check out the actual ice-cream sandwich compared with the picture!

Wolfville (140km from Digby)

A short drive from Digby, Annapolis Royal is the oldest European settlement in Nova Scotia. Port Royal is Canada’s oldest national historic site.

Fort Anne is a historic fort built by Scottish settlers in 1629 to protect the harbour. The fort has an interesting museum which showcases the history of the area, including that of the indigenous Mi’kmaw, a heritage that goes back thousands of years.

The town also has botanical gardens to visit.

Drive onwards to Wolfville, a university town in the heart of Nova Scotia’s wine country. This valley within a valley has a microclimate which is perfect for growing grapes so there are plentiful vineyards in the area. Now, if you’re driving, you can’t enjoy a tasting, so we recommend a wine tour. The Magic Bus Winery tour involves boarding an old red London Routemaster double-decker bus and being driven to local wineries where you get to taste their delicious offerings. Lunch is also included in some of the tours.

Make sure to visit Grand Pre, a historic park which is a UNESCO heritage site. This beautiful area has an interpretive centre, which offers a lot of information about the history of the region notably the Mi’kmaq and the Acadians.

It is an important place to learn about the deportation of the Acadians, French settlers forced to leave by the British, many of whom eventually ended up in Louisiana, where they became known as Cajun. There is a memorial church dedicated to the Acadians.

Grand Pre memorial church to the Acadians

Driving up from Yarmouth you will no doubt have travelled along at least a part of the Evangeline Trail. It is here that you can discover who Evangeline was – ‘Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie’ is a poem written by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow telling the tragic story of these horrible deportations.

Accommodation: Tattingstone Inn was the poshest hotel on our trip. Located about a 20 minute walk from the centre, this offered a large room in a historic house. Breakfast was included and had plenty of options on the menu.

Truro (120km from Digby)

To be honest, this was a stop-off on our way to Cape Breton to break up the journey. But we did have a plan to enjoy one of the most exciting activities in the area. The Bay of Fundy, which lies between Nova Scotia and mainland Canada, has one of the highest tidal ranges in the world. A billion tonnes of water move in and out of the bay twice a day – more than the entire freshwater rivers of the world. The interpretation centre by the river on route 289 is free to visit and has some interesting information about the area.

Tidal bore rafting on the Shubenacadie river is a fun activity – you drift along the river as the tide goes out, then, when the tide turns, the river reverses, the bore comes in and, as the river basin fills, you get standing waves, which can be up to 6 feet tall! This video sums up how much fun it is.

Tips for Bore Rafting: Wear old clothes. Don’t take anything of value. If you wear glasses, either don’t wear them or put them on a string or chain. You can borrow a wetsuit but the water is surprisingly warm in September – about 20 DegC.

Drive on to Truro. It has a lovely and extensive park – Victoria Gardens – which has lots of trails and delightful waterfalls. You can climb the jacob’s ladder – if you have any energy left.

Cape Breton

Cape Breton is a beautiful island on the northern part of the peninsula. Take Route 104 north until you reach the bridge then cross the water onto Route 105.

Baddeck (250km from Truro)

Baddeck is a small town, often regarded as the start of the Cabot Trail. It is a very pretty area with shops and restaurants along the main street.

At the edge of town is the Alexander Graham Bell museum. This Scottish inventor – best known for inventing the telephone – settled in the area with his family. The museum is really interesting and covers much more than his most famous invention.

Alexander Graham Bell museum aircraft exhibit

If you’re lucky you may be able to get tickets for an evening cèilidh in town – a social gathering with music and/or dance – in the town hall. Be sure you get tickets early, they do sell out.

Baddeck Food: If you haven’t eaten enough lobster, make sure to go for an all-you-can-eat seafood feast at Baddeck Lobster Suppers. (All you can eat chowder and mussels, plus lobster or snow crab and a dessert!)

Cabot Trail

The Cabot Trail is known as one of the world’s most beautiful coastal drives. It is a circular route through beautiful countryside with gorgeous seascapes along the way. There are plenty of stopping points. We drove the trail anti-clockwise so that the car passenger could have sea views but it’s perfectly fine to drive the other way round.

Important: The Cabot Trail goes through several national parks. If you are just driving through, you don’t need to pay the entrance fee but if you are stopping off at any attraction inside the park, buy a ticket at the entrance booths. If you arrive in the afternoon, the ticket will be valid for most of the following day. Check to see whether you can get a multiple person discount if you have travelling companions.

Ingonish (100km from Baddeck)

Ingonish is located on a very pretty bay with an isthmus. This is the place to enjoy outdoor activities. The tourist information centre or your hotel can give you a map of some of the hiking routes – which range from easy to a bit more challenging. Glorious views guaranteed.

Ingonish isthmus walk. beautiful coastline

If you’re feeling less energetic, the gondola at Cape Smokey offers a trip to the top of the mountain and plenty of views.

During the visitor season there are loads of activities available, such as whale watching, kayaking, even gelato making! And sometimes it’s just nice to have some relaxing beach time.

Ingonish Accommodation: We stayed at the Skyline Cabins right on the Cabot Trail but just outside the national park, so you don’t have to pay the daily fee (unless you go into the park). They were opposite a good diner and there was a supermarket and liquor store just up the road.

Ingonish Food: We enjoyed more meals at Main Street Restaurant and Bakery. And then drove to the Fisherman’s Kitchen for seafood. It’s worth noting that restaurants in Ingonish are spread some distances apart, so you will likely have to drive to them.

Cheticamp (115km from Ingonish)

Continue along the Cabot Trail. Don’t forget to stop at the St Paul Museum and Lighthouse, on the Dingwall road.

The road on the western coast of the trail is just charming and there are lots of stopping points.

coastal view on cabot trail near cheticamp

Cheticamp wears its Acadian heritage with pride. There are lots of hikes in the area, including a coastal walk that takes in a historic Acadian village, now in ruins, but with infographics.

And there are river walks and waterfalls to enjoy as well.

Les Trois Pignons, on the Cabot Trail, is a museum that offers an introduction to Acadian culture and the history of Chéticamp, as well as an impressive collection of hooked rugs.

Cheticamp Accommodation: Auberge Doucet is slightly out of town (a five minute drive) but its setting on a hill affords lovely views of the area. The sit-down breakfast made to order will set you up for the day.

Cheticamp Food: Seafood Stop Restaurant (conveniently walkable from the hotel) does exactly what it says – great seafood, especially lobster. Harbour Restaurant and Bar offered Acadian-Style Morue en Cabane which was a cod dish cooked with chives (used as a vegetable rather than a garnish) and pork scraps.

Back to Halifax (400km from Cheticamp)

This is the looooong drive back to the capital. It takes around 4 and half hours if you just keep driving but there are plenty of places to stop along the way. Take the 105, then the 104 and then the 102 roads. Antigonish is a nice town to break up the journey. The Mi’kmaq Cultural Museum at Millbrook, just south of Truro and off highway 102, was a great place to learn about the heritage and culture of Nova Scotia’s indigenous people.

Resources To Help You Plan Your Trip

Accommodation in Nova Scotia:

Booking.com: Hotels in Nova Scotia. Book your hotel now!

Car Rental in Nova Scotia

Activities in Nova Scotia:

A Perfect Week’s Itinerary for Jordan

21st October 2025 / 7 Comments on A Perfect Week’s Itinerary for Jordan

The delightful country of Jordan is blessed with a long and interesting history as well as amazing dramatic landscapes. Many visitors know of Petra, the country’s crown jewel and one of the seven wonders of the modern world, but there are so many other fascinating places to see. This is our week-long itinerary for Jordan.

Please note that this post contains affiliate links. If you click through and decide to make a purchase we will earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you, which will help towards the costs of running this site.

How To Get To Jordan

The best way to reach Jordan is to fly directly to Amman Queen Alia International Airport. The city is about 40km away and there are plenty of options to get into the centre. Buses, taxis and Uber are available.

You may need a visa to enter Jordan. If this is the case, and you are planning to stay more than three days and visit historic sites, consider buying a Jordan Pass which includes your visa and will get you discounted entry to a number of sites.

How To Get Around Jordan

Jordan isn’t a large country and it is possible reach the key locations within a few hours. For example, Petra is less than 250km from Amman and it takes just 3 hours to drive there.

There are multiple ways to travel around the country. Public buses are available between the main sites or you could rent a car. We wouldn’t recommend driving in Amman (the traffic is horrendous!) but outside of the capital, the roads are easy to use.

There are also options for a private driver, who can be hired by the day, and could be a good option if you are travelling in a group.

Alternatively, there are lots of guided trips available. Day trips to many of the locations are available from Amman, but we recommend staying overnight in Petra and the Wadi Rum as these really deserve time to explore thoroughly. You definitely don’t want to miss out on the wonders of these sites because you are spending six hours on the road travelling back and forth to Amman.

A Week’s Itinerary For Jordan

Day 1 Arrive Amman

Jordan’s sprawling capital has plenty of attractions to see on the first day, depending on how much time you have when you arrive.

The Romans conquered Jordan three thousand years ago and it is possible to visit the amphitheatre and adjacent museum. Climb to the ruins of the citadel to get views of the city. The King Abdullah II mosque, also known as the Blue Mosque, is open for visitors but be aware that you will need to dress modestly. A headscarf will be provided if needed.

Day 2 Day Trip to Jerash

Jerash is an easy day trip from Amman. It takes around an hour to reach it. This remarkable city in northern Jordan is one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world.

On entering the dramatic Hadrian arch, you can walk along the main road discovering many of the original Roman sites along the way.

Is Jerash worth visiting -Hadrian's arch

Jerash is highly unusual in that it had an oval forum.

There is also a vast hippodrome, two theatres and many temples to view. Our post about visiting Jerash has details of its many treasures.

Day 3 Travel to Petra via Mount Nebo and Shobak Castle

It takes around an hour to reach Mount Nebo from Amman. This is the place from the bible where Moses was given a view of the Promised Land.

Itinerary for jordan - view from mount nebo

view from mount nebo showing the main features

There is also a Byzantine church on the mountain, which has some lovely mosaics.

mosaic featuring peacock at church at mount nebo

Continue from Mount Nebo to Petra. The journey takes 3 hours via the main highway, or 3 ½ hours via the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea route is most definitely the most scenic.

There are also many biblical connections here. This is the region where Sodom and Gomorrah, wicked cities destroyed by God, are located. There is a salt column known as Lot’s Wife. She was turned into a pillar of salt after disobeying the angels’ instructions not to look back at the carnage.

Lot's wife rock formation near hte dead sea in Jordan

Stop at Shobak Castle, a dramatic crusader castle set atop a mountain. It was built in 1115 when King Baldwin I ruled the land.

Shobak Castle on the gravel hillside in jordan

Arrive at Wadi Musa. This is the town just outside Petra and where the hotels and restaurants are located.

You could experience the Petra By Night light and sound show.

Days 4 and 5 Explore Petra

One of the seven wonders of the modern world, we recommend spending a lot of time in Petra. Although its most famous structure, the Treasury, was made famous by the Indiana Jones film, the site is absolutely huge and would take several days to explore thoroughly. Two days are the minimum to give you a feel for this astonishing site.

We recommend getting a guide for at least part of your visit. The guide will be able to give you a history of the area and point out the main features, as well as giving information about how the site might have been constructed.

Petra was built around the 1st Century BCE by an ancient Arab tribe known as the Nabateans. They were traders and had a very enlightened culture. The Rose Red City has multiple constructions to explore far beyond the Treasury. There are walking trails all over the site. You will walk through a dramatic canyon to reach the Treasury.

But that is just the start. Other key sites are the Monastery, the Nabatean Tombs…

Visit Petra in Jordan Nabatean Palace Tomb

…the amphitheatre and the Colonnaded street.

These are just a few of the many, many remarkable features of the site. You are free to explore and can go inside all the buildings, except the Treasury.

You can read more about visiting Petra in our post, including insight into the many places to visit and what you need to bring.

Petra Accommodation: There are a plethora of hotels at Wadi Musa.

Day 6 Wadi Rum

It takes around 2 hours to travel around 110km southwards from Petra to the Wadi Rum.

The Wadi Rum is a wonderful desert wilderness. There are amazing geological features such as canyons and rock arches.

The Khazali Canyon is very dramatic. You can see petroglyphs here as well.

khazali canyon in the wadi rum in jordan

The area is associated with TE Lawrence, Lawrence of Arabia, who played an important role in the Arab Revolt from 1916 to 1918. There is a natural spring named after Lawrence, who apparently had a good wash there. The Seven Pillars of Wisdom rock formation was named after Lawrence’s book. It is located close to the Wadi Rum visitor centre.

Seven pillars of wisdom rock formation in the wadi rum

We took a jeep tour with a local operator here. They knew the desert well. We recommend staying overnight in the Wadi Rum. We stayed in a camp – individual tents with shared washing facilities.

There was a communal area where we could meet other visitors and the friendly local residents, enjoy some Bedouin whiskey (a cup of tea!) and chat about life in the desert.

Sitting outside, watching the sun set and then the clear starry night sky, the desert is a relaxing place to be.

Dinner was cooked in the desert – literally in the desert, as trays of meat and vegetables were cooked in an underground fire. They emerged perfectly cooked, smoky and delicious.

dinner in the desert for cooking in the sand

Day 7 Dead Sea

The Dead Sea is a mysterious place. It is the lowest place on earth and the vast lake is so salty that not only can it not sustain life, it also destroys machinery, so you will never see a boat on the water.

This is the place for a unique experience – to float in the water where it’s impossible to sink and also impossible to swim. Dead Sea mud is also reputed to be beneficial for your skin.

This is the place to relax after your sightseeing. There are loads of resorts around the Dead Sea. You can read our post about visiting the Dead Sea.

Day 8 Back to Amman

It takes about an hour to return to Amman from the Dead Sea.

Jordan for Foodies

Middle Eastern cuisine is one of the world’s greatest. The best dishes in the world are ones that you can share and mezze is the perfect way to taste a variety of dishes.

Vegetarians and vegans will never go hungry – the veggie food here is so delicious that you forget that you’re not eating meat. Falafel (chickpea fritters) with baba ganoush (aubergine) and hummus (chickpea) dips are just sublime. And there are a plethora of delicious salads such as fattoush (salad with breads) and tabbouleh (bulgur wheat with herbs) all eaten with flatbreads.

A special Jordanian dish is maqluba, known as ‘upside down’. It is a celebratory dish, comprising meat and vegetables cooked with rice in a pot. It is tipped upside down for serving. It’s real comfort food, mildly spiced, full of flavour.

Middle Eastern desserts are not only delicious they are also quite addictive. One of the defining elements of a Jordanian dessert we tried when visiting the country was the sweet, sweet syrup that soaks into and pervades the pastry or dough that forms the base. The sweetness is probably a good thing as it does limit your ability to scoff vast quantities of these scrumptious sweets.

Baklava is probably the most well-known dessert – it comprises layers of flake filo pastry and nuts all covered in sweet syrup or honey. Burma is rolls of shredded pastry, stuffed with green pistachio nuts and drizzled with syrup. Halva combines tahini and sugar to form a tablet which has a lovely crumbly texture.

Kanafeh comprises pastry or dough, saturated in syrup and layered with a very slightly salty cheese, traditionally nabulsi or akkawi, which adds a comforting and savoury contrast to counterbalance the sweetness. Kanafeh can take a variety of forms – some use vermicelli type noodles as the base, others a pastry dough. The syrup can be flavoured with rose or orange water to give a light fragrance.

Habibah in Amman have been in business for several decades. It’s easy to see why. They specialise in Jordanian dessert and their kanafeh is superb. This kanafeh is based on a pastry dough with layers of cheese. It is an absolutely delicious way to round off any meal. Or you could just order a really large portion and eat that instead of a meal – it’s worth it.

Resources To Help You Plan Your Trip

Accommodation in Amman

Accommodation in Petra (NB these hotels are located at Wadi Musa.)

Dead Sea Resorts

Rental Cars for Jordan

Final Thoughts On This Itinerary for Jordan

Jordan really has so much to offer – from remarkable historic sites to amazing geographical wonders. This week long itinerary will ensure that you see the very best of this amazing country.

Five Wonderful Places to Visit From Tokyo

9th October 2025 / 6 Comments on Five Wonderful Places to Visit From Tokyo

Japan’s capital Tokyo is a must-visit destination for anyone making a trip to this amazing country. This vibrant and exciting city is vast and has many, many places to see and things to do. But if you are spending a few days here, there are a number of fantastic places that are easily accessible from Tokyo for a day trip or for an overnight stay. From shrines to shorelines, ramen to rollercoasters and mountains with museums, here are our top five places to visit from Tokyo.

How To Travel Around the Region

We always recommend using public transport when travelling in Japan. You can get a JR Pass, which will cover all your transportation on Japan Rail services. If you are just travelling around eastern Japan, a regional JR Pass is cheaper. (Be aware that some transportation may be by private lines so would cost extra.)

There are usually multiple ways to reach these locations via public transport – we’ve indicated which are the easiest/quickest and from which station in Tokyo.

Places To Visit From Tokyo – Day Trips

The Temples of Kamakura

How To Get There: Distance from Tokyo (Tokyo station): ~50km, 55 minutes (JR Pass)

Kamakura is sometimes known as Little Kyoto – it is a delightful city with many, many temples to explore. It was effectively the capital of Japan between 1185 and 1333 and was founded by Minamoto no Yoritomo, the first ruling shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate.

The highlight is the Kotokuin Temple which contains the Great Buddha of Kamakura, the Kamakura Daibutsu. It dates from 1252, originally carved in wood but then cast in bronze. You can go inside the daibutsu for a small fee. It used to be housed in a hall but this was destroyed by a tsunami many centuries ago.

places to visit from Tokyo - the kamakura giant buddha

Oh, and don’t forget to check out the Buddha’s shoes!

Engakuji Temple is a Zen temple, constructed in 1282. It is a very peaceful place and one of Japan’s primary Rinzai Zen temples. If you are interested, you can join a meditation sessions early on Sunday mornings (from 6-7am, in Japanese).

Kamakura is located on the coast so if you’re after some beach time, this is a great place to visit. The beaches are broad and sandy and they are fine for swimming. Yuigahama is the closest, a short walk from the city.

The City Within A City – Yokohama

How To Get There: Distance from Tokyo (Tokyo station) 33km, half an hour direct on the bullet train (JR Pass).

Yokohama may well be part of the greater Tokyo conurbation, but is actually Japan’s second largest city. It has an important place in Japanese history. American Commodore Matthew Perry arrived at Tokyo Bay in 1853 and 1854 and demanded that Japan end its isolationist policy and open up to the world. The treaty was signed in Kanagawa, part of Yokohama.

The city is lively and bustling with plenty of things to see and do. Explore the historic dock area – Oshanbashi Pier and Yamashita Park are fantastic waterside places to visit. The city hosts Japan’s largest Chinatown.

Yokohama also boasts a delightful garden, Sankeien, which also features historic buildings from across Japan.

It also has a couple of theme parks: Cosmoworld is a theme park with loads of attractions. Entry is free, just pay for each ride. It has rollercoasters for thrillseekers, including one that goes over and then under the ocean. Hakkeijima Sea Paradise is a small park located on an island to the south of the city. It has a fun rollercoaster Surf Coaster Leviathan.

Foodies should definitely stop by the Yokohama Ramen museum where you can learn about the history of noodles and then go downstairs to an edo-style street where you can sample ramen from all over Japan! You can read about visiting the Yokohama Ramen Museum.

The Charming Historic District of Kawagoe

How To Get There: Distance from Tokyo (Shinjuku/Ikebukuro) 45 km, 30 mins to an hour. There are a couple of private lines: Tobu Railway runs from Ikebukuro to Kawagoe every 10 minutes. Seibu connects Seibu Shinjuku with Hon-Kawagoe. If you have a JR Pass and want to use that, you can travel from Shinjuku to JR Kawagoe. Hon-Kawagoe station is closest to the attractions but it isn’t too far a walk from the others.

Kawagoe is known as Little Edo because of its old warehouses and merchant homes, called kurazukuri.

PLaces to visit from Tokyo Warehouses and wooden tower in Kawagoe

It has a lovely old-world feel, albeit with lots of shops for tourists, and there are loads of foodie attractions to discover: charcoal-boiled eel in a sweet soy sauce is a speciality, as are sweet potato dishes.

One of the attractions in Kawagoe is Kashiya Yokocho – Candy Alley – a street chock full of traditional Japanese shops offering sweet temptations. Apparently a candy maker called Suzuki Tozaemon started making sweets in front of the Yojin temple. After the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 the area became the main supplier of sweets for Tokyo.

If you don’t have a sweet tooth, no problem. There are plenty of savoury snacks on offer as well. Takosen is takoyaki (deep fried octopus balls) sandwiched between prawn crackers.

The name combines tako (octopus) with senbei (cracker) and advertises itself as junk food. It is seriously good.

Sweet potatoes are particularly popular, in fact Kawagoe is known colloquially as the city of sweet potatoes. Once considered a staple after the war, when food was scarce, the city still makes multiple products from these tasty tubers. And if you’re given a photo opportunity to pose as a sweet potato you have to take it, don’t you?

posing as a sweet potato in candy alley, kawagoe

Imo senbei snacks are thinly sliced, dried sweet potato crackers sprinkled sparsely and randomly with black sesame seeds.

The curious thing about these is that you would expect them to be either sweet or slightly salty and they are neither. They are not bland, but rely on the natural sweetness of the sweet potato and have just a hint of sesame for additional flavour. They have a lovely crunchy texture and are great to eat as an accompaniment to a cool beer.

Places to Visit From Tokyo – A Couple of Days

Although you could visit the following locations in a day, they are so interesting it is worth spending a bit more time here if you can.

The Treasures of Nikko

How To Get There: Distance from Tokyo (Asakusa station) 120km, just over 2 hours. Tobu Asakusa Station (you can buy tickets and discount passes at the Tobu Information Centre) You can also buy a Nikko Pass in advance.

Nikko is a treasure trove. While it is possible to visit as a day trip from Toyko, we recommend spending at least one night in the area which maximises your chances of seeing more of its wonders.

This region of temples and shrines dates back to 766 CE when a Buddhist monk established a temple in the mountains north of Tokyo. Over the years it became a place of worship both for Buddhism as well as Japan’s indigenous religion Shinto, which recognises spirits in all things, particularly nature.

The splendid vermilion sacred bridge across the Daiya River, the Shinkyo Bridge, constructed in 1636, marks the entrance to the wonderful shrines. It is one of Japan’s top three bridges and is a UNESCO site.

There are multiple temples to visit. Toshugu is the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, who founded the Tokugawa Shogunate, which ruled Japan for over 250 years. The temple was built in the 17^th century. There are multiple buildings to explore, many exquisitely carved and decorated with beautiful gold leaf.

The three wise monkeys, see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil – Mizaru, Kikazaru and Iwazaru -can be seen here. The Sōzō-no-Zō are called the imaginary elephants because they were carved by a sculptor who had never seen an elephant.

see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil monkey carvings at nikko

Toshugu also has a magnificent five-storey pagoda.

Iemetsu was the grandson of Ieyasu and his mausoleum is Taiyiun. It’s less lavish than his grandfather’s. There are Buddhist and Shinto (Japan’s indigenous religion) buildings within the complex.

Rinnoji temple was founded by Shodo Shonin who introduced Buddhism to Nikko in the 8^th century. The Sanbutsudo building contains statues of three important deities: Amida, Senju-Kannon and Bato-Kannon which are thought to represent Nikko’s mountain gods.

The complex also has a treasure house and small garden.

We also recommend visiting the gorgeous natural gorge of the Kanmangafuchi Abyss. It is on the Kanman Path and you can see the 74 Jizo statues, Bodhisattvas that care for the dead.

If you are short on time, organised day trips from Tokyo will ensure that you see the major sights.

The Lakes and Mountains of Hakone

The town of Hakone and surrounding area is a fantastic place to get away from the bright lights of the city and enjoy a plethora of activities in the countryside, all overlooked by the mighty Mount Fuji… if the venerable mountain ever makes an appearance through the cloudbank that often surrounds it. As you can see, we visited when the weather was particularly vile, but that didn’t stop our enjoyment – there are loads of things to do and places to see. The region is quite large so you will need to use transportation to get between locations. The Hakone Free Pass will ensure that you can use all the public transport in the area

How To Get There: Distance from Tokyo (Shinjuku station) ~100km

Train: Get to Odawara from Tokyo on the shinkansen or the JR Tokaido Main Line (from Tokyo) or the JR Shonan Shinjuku Line (Shinjuku, Shibuya). Then you will need to change and use local trains (where you can’t use the JR Pass). A Hakone Free Pass will allow you to use all the transportation options in the area. If you don’t have a JR Pass, Odakyu Railway runs between Shinjuku and Hakone on the delightfully named ‘romance car’.

Bus: There are two Odakyu Highway Buses every hour from Shinjuku.

The Hakone Round Course is a great way of exploring the region using many different modes of transport (train, cablecar, boat, ropeway and bus). From Odawara Station take the Odakyu Line to Hakone Yumoto Station where the round course starts and ends. This will ensure that you see the main attractions.

From Hakone-Yumoto take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Chokoku-no-Mori Station. Hakone Open Air Museum is a fantastic outdoor sculpture park well worth visiting. It’s a delightful open air museum with lovely grounds and artwork everywhere. If it’s raining, the Picasso Pavilion has indoor art.

Then go on to Gora where you can explore another art museum if you are feeling arty. Take the cable car to Sounzan.

The Hakone Ropeway is an essential ride, connecting the Sounzan Station with the Togendai Station at Lake Ashi. Stop at Owakudani to see – and smell – the volcanic activities here. The name translates as Great Boiling Valley but the locals also call it Hell Valley.

Foodies will want to eat a boiled egg, cooked in the sulphurous hot springs until the shell is black.

Even Hello Kitty found it sulphurously stinky!

Gliding over the mountain offers views of the bubbling hot springs below. Togendai Station is a good place to view Lake Ashi and also Mount Fuji, if it’s visible that day. It is covered by cloud for a lot of the time. Check out the visibility guide here.

When you get to the port make sure you take a ride across the lake on a pirate ship!

You could stop at Hakone-machi to see the Checkpoint Museum, a Palace Garden and an Ancient Cedar Avenue, or you could continue to Moto-Hakone. There is a lovely shrine at Moto-Hakone and then you catch a bus back to Hakone Yumoto.

If you want more mountains and lakes, the Fuji Five Lakes area is accessible by bus from Hakone and is another resort area with lovely countryside. If you want to visit and climb Mount Fuji the climbing season is from early July to late August.

Mix and Match Trips

If you are really short on time there are a number of tours that will cover multiple locations. Many will be able to pick you up from your accommodation or a central location in Tokyo.

What To Do in Tromsø in Winter – Arctic Activities

1st October 2025 / 1 Comment on What To Do in Tromsø in Winter – Arctic Activities

The Norwegian city of Tromsø, located on Tromsøya island around 350km north of the Arctic Circle at 69 degrees north, is a lovely cosmopolitan town with plenty of attractions. As well as museums, art galleries and stunning cathedrals, there is beautiful countryside to explore in the local area. There are also lots of excursions to experience Arctic culture and exciting activities, especially in the wintertime. The area is widely considered to be a great location for viewing the Northern Lights although, as with all natural phenomena, sightings aren’t guaranteed. Here’s our guide for what to do in Tromsø in winter.

How To Get To Tromsø

Most people fly into Tromsø which has its own airport, just 5km from the city centre. The Norwegian railway network does not yet reach Tromsø. The city has a port and is a popular location for northern cruise ships.

There are many ways to get into the city from the airport. Public buses are the cheapest option, and there is also an airport express bus. Plentiful taxis are available too.

It’s also a good place from which to travel even further north as regular flights are available to take you to Svalbard.

Where To Stay in Tromsø

It won’t be the first time that we say this but, for non-Scandinavian travellers, Norway is an expensive place to visit. We stayed in the SmartHotel whose tagline is ‘small room, great bed’. They are absolutely right about the small room, it’s teeny with stark concrete walls. But, for a couple, the bed wasn’t that amazing because it was located against the end wall of the room, so one of us had to clamber over the other to get out. But it was adequate, had a great location and was the cheapest option for us. And, we always say, we’re there to explore the area, not spend all our time in a hotel. Tromsø has a variety of accommodation options for those who are less agile or have bigger budgets.

Notes About Visiting Tromsø in Winter

It’s cold! The average winter temperatures hover around 0◦C to -5 ◦C. These certainly are not the coldest – it gets super-cold further east in Sweden and Finland – but we recommend bringing warm clothing and waterproofs. Layers work well, especially if you enter heated buildings because you warm up pretty quickly when indoors.

It’s snowy and icy! Tromsø experiences snow in winter and this can compact and turn to ice. You may find that many of the pavements are slippery on foot. In fact, Colin slipped over on a roadside as a bus was approaching. Not only did the driver stop in time, he got out of his cab to pick Colin up! This truly reflects the friendliness and helpfulness of local people. If you are nervous walking on ice, you can pick up spikes that you can place over your shoes. We recommend taking good waterproof walking shoes or boots – winter in Tromsø isn’t the place for fashionable footwear!

It’s dark! Because Tromsø is so far north, the daylight hours will be significantly reduced in the winter. The shortest day will be on the winter solstice (around 21^st December). It usually isn’t dark all day though – but you may experience the dusky blue twilight of the polar winter.

What To Do in Tromsø In Winter

There are lots of activities both in the city and the wider countryside. Winter is a great time to visit Tromsø, especially if you want to experience life in the snowy Arctic.

Polar Museum

This excellent museum has a number of exhibits about the region with an emphasis on various expeditions to reach the North Pole over the years.

The museum is well curated and shows a variety of objects connected with Arctic exploration. The Nansen’s Fram exhibit is particularly interesting. It tells the story about the theory that an icebreaker ship frozen into the pack ice could drift across the North Pole, simply using the east-west current of the Arctic Ocean. It’s a fascinating story of endeavour and endurance in incredibly harsh conditions.

The musuem is free to visit, but donations are welcome.

Troll Museum

Tromsø’s troll museum is the first of its kind in Norway. Dedicated to the local legends of trolls and Norwegian fairy-tales it is highly interactive and features a lot of augmented reality. Fun for children and adults alike.

Tromsø Cathedral

Tromsø Cathedral is a charming church and the northernmost cathedral in the world. A delightful church built in 1861, it is the only Protestant wooden church in Norway.

It hosts daily midnight concerts which offer a combination of traditional Norwegian music, indigenous Sami music and folk tunes.

Tromsø Center for Contemporary Art – Tromsø Kunstforening

This delightful gallery is the oldest art institution in Northern Norway. It’s a housed in a sizeable building. From a purely budgetary perspective, this is a great place to visit because the Tromsø Center for Contemporary Art is free. You not only receive a friendly welcome you can have a free cup of coffee, a lovely warm drink on a cold winter’s day, while you enjoy your art.

Being a contemporary art gallery there is a changing programme of exhibitions. Our visit was centred on short films on a variety of subjects, you could use the remote control to pick what you wanted to view. English subtitles were available. The Norwegian film Koftepolitiet (2021) told the story of three Sámi men, one in traditional gákti, on an excursion in Oslo. Upstairs there were more exhibits, including Erik Løchen’s Motforestilling (Remonstrance, 1972) – a new wave film whose five reels can be shown in any order and perspective, here enhanced by five screens of the reels that you could sit, watch and rotate according to how you wanted to view.

viewing experience at the centre for contemporary art

We absolutely recommend the Tromsø Center for Contemporary Art as it is engaging, enlightening, unexpected and welcoming.

Perspective Museum

The aim of this museum is to showcase stories from the city and other places with exhibitions offering a distinctly northern perspective – hence the title. The entrance fee is 80NOK.

Polaria

This Arctic experience centre, set in a dramatic building which resembles ice floes, offers various experiences. The most popular is meeting their seals for a greet and feed session. There is a small aquarium showing sea creatures from the local area.

Across To The Mainland

Cross over the dramatic Tromsø Bridge which connects Tromsøya island with the mainland and is just over one kilometre in length. Pedestrians can walk along the right hand side of the bridge (leaving the city). It’s about half an hour’s walk from the city centre. The bridge is beautifully lit up at night.

Arctic Cathedral

The Arctic Cathedral is a beautiful building constructed in 1965.

It’s a local landmark visible from Tromsø city centre and from the air as you fly into the airport. Its architecture is reminiscent of shards of ice and you can see the beautiful stained glass windows from the interior, even in the winter light.

There is a fee to visit – 80 NOK.

Fjellheisen Cable Car

The Fjellheisen cable car brings you from Solliveien in Tromsdalen up to Storsteinen so that you can get a view of the city from across the straits.

It only runs every half hour and is super-expensive, so it’s worth making sure that when you visit you’ll get a great view. The fee is a whopping 415 NOK (about $40) for a return ticket, so if it’s a cloudy day, we suggest waiting for better weather.

Tromsø Winter Excursions

Tromsø has a large range of excursions to enjoy. Many will take you out into the lovely snowy countryside where you can enjoy a variety of winter activities.

Northern Lights

Tromsø is an excellent location for viewing the Northern Lights, the delightful Aurora Borealis that dances across the night sky. However, you are dependent on nature co-operating – the sun needs to be active and the skies clear of clouds. There are a number of excursions offered from Tromsø – these generally involve a hotel pickup and a drive into the countryside, away from the lights of the city. Some may offer snowmobiling or dog-sledding activities as well.

We didn’t see the lights when we visited Tromsø but were lucky the following year when we visited Rovaniemi in Finnish Lapland. If seeing the lights is a priority, we recommend planning to spend a few days in the same area because it gives cloudy weather a chance to clear. (Although you still need the sun to be co-operative.) The tour operators will be monitoring sun activity, which has been at its peak in 2025. The next couple of years should see a fairly active sun but then activity is likely to decline to its new minimum in 2031. So, book that trip sooner rather than later!

Sámi Culture Excursion

An enjoyable excursion involved an introduction to the culture of the Sámi, Norway’s indigenous community. This is a meet, greet and eat scenario whereby you are picked up from the city and taken to the local Sami village. You meet the reindeer and get a chance to feed them. You’ll discover that find these charming beasties have no compunction in seeking munchy dominance when they hear the maraca-style rattling food pellets in the bucket and will gently butt your butt with their horns if they are seeking a sneaky snack. They’ll return the favour by giving you a short sleigh ride around the grounds to take in the views and the landscape.

What To Do in Tromsø in Winter feeding the sami reindeer

Then you go inside and enjoy a three-course meal, the main course of which is a nice healthy stew made from one of the reindeers’ ex-buddies. (It’s important to note that the Sami look after their reindeer beautifully but, when elderly reindeer lose their teeth they can’t eat, so are slaughtered before they starve. All parts of the reindeer are used – for food or clothing or even tools.)

After dessert, the group will head to a separate tent and sit around the fire, to learn about Sámi culture, maybe even with a joik – a traditional song.

Tourism helps support feeding the reindeer. It has become increasingly difficult for them to follow their natural feeding patterns due to climate change. Traditionally, Sami follow their reindeer herds from Norway into Sweden and back, according to the season.

long antlered reindeer in tromso sami camp

Other fun winter activities include dog sledding, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing.

Tromsø For Foodies

Dining out in Tromsø is expensive. We were shocked by some of the prices in restaurants, especially considering the portion size. However, we did find a solution where we could find reasonably priced local fish. The Dragøy fish market was excellent value and offered smoked fish platters that were tasty and filling.

The platter included salmon, Arctic char, cod and halibut, served with fresh bread, pickles and lots of dill. They also offered a sashimi plate with a serious amount of salmon on offer.

If you are on a very tight budget, Tromsø has plenty of supermarkets where you can fuel up. Many of these have buffet bars where you can fill up a bowl and pay by the weight, and pastries sections with lots of options.

For drinks, the microbrewery Mack Mikrobryggeri claims to be the world’s northemnost brewery, but they seem to have forgotten the excellent brewery at Svalbard. The Ølhallen bar offers an amazing selection of beers from their extensive taproom. Just look at the 72 options available!

ohallen bar in tromso with lots of beers

You can enjoy a tasting board curated by the bartender, or you can pick your own selection. The beers are really interesting because many of them use local ingredients. The cloudberry gose was particularly good. Some of the beer names are delightfully quirky as well: kittens, puppies and hops, smoke stouts, lemon meringue and and nitro DIPA were some of the eclectic range we enjoyed.

Just close your eyes and worry about the bill later.

Top Tipple Tip: If you enjoy drinking alcohol, you can buy booze on arrival at the airport duty-free shop before you enter Tromsø. This means that you will get much cheaper beer, wine or spirits than in the bars and shops in the city because you won’t have to pay Norway’s high tax on alcohol. That said, while it is cheaper it’s still not cheap!

Resources To Help You Plan Your Trip to Tromsø

Find accommodation in Tromsø.

Rent a car to get out in to the countryside.

Final Thoughts

Tromsø is a delightful town with friendly locals and plenty to see and do. If you plan to travel within the next few years, you may also be able to see the remarkable spectacle of the Northern Lights. But, even if you don’t get lucky with nature, Tromsø is an excellent location to experience the Arctic winter and to try all sorts of activities.

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