The Very Best Kuching Food

Kuching is the capital of Sarawak on the delightful island of Borneo (Malaysian). It’s a lovely city to visit with plenty to see and do, both in town and the surrounding area. But is it worth investigating for culinary morsels? Well, we say a decisive yes! But don’t just take our word for it. In 2021 Kuching became part of the UNESCO Creative Cities network for Gastronomy so we invite you to tuck into the diverse range of culinary delights that are intrinsic to this wonderful city. Here’s our guide to the very best Kuching food.

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Sarawak is located in the north west of Malayisan Borneo and is a place of cultural diversity. A range of culinary influences have emerged and evolved over the years to offer a vast range of foodie delicacies that are excitingly tempting. The cuisine has links to Indonesia and Singapore, via Chinese and Islamic communities. Many of the dishes are familiar but also have distinctly regional variations.

Coffee, But Not As We Know It

Coffee is always a great way to start the day. But coffee in Kuching has two distinct implementations.

The Nanyang breakfast is a very special thing and popular in both Singapore and Malaysia. It comprises a really good, strong cup of coffee accompanied with kaya (coconut jam) toast and two very soft-boiled eggs. A kopitam – coffee house – is definitely somewhere to make a point of visiting if you are in the area. Some hotels will offer a Nanyang breakfast and we recommend trying it at least once during your stay.

There’s another type of coffee that is distinctly Kuching in its desire to make you smile. This is opium coffee. Yes. Opium coffee. Kopi. Don’t worry, there is no actual opium in the coffee but rather, a special extra ingredient that makes the excellent strong brew unique in your café-sipping experiences. Prepare yourself because the addictive addition to enhance your caffeinated quaffing mug of joy is… butter.

You have a distinctive white patterned top on your rich black coffee, like some fancy art pattern in pretentious coffee establishments but in this instance it is not cream or some wretched flavoured syrup. Instead it is a slowly melting, decadent knob of butter. But does it work? Is it an addictive promise leading to years of rehab or a palette-insulting liquid atrocity? Fortunately neither. It is a very different drink to indulge in, and is surprisingly tasty.

Oodles of Noodles

Sarawak laksa is the genius of cuisine that is a breakfast dish but actually can be eaten any time of the day. Described by the late Anthony Bourdain as ‘Breakfast of the Gods’, this may seem to be an overly media-savvy quotation from the multi-cultural cuisine expert, but this is no random statement because the laksa is specific to the region and very, very special.

The Breakfast of the Gods’ base is vermicelli, thin rice noodles. They are served in a spicy coconut milk broth made with locally produced laksa paste that comprises shrimp paste, spices and a multitude of other special ingredients. You place shredded chicken, omelette, bean-sprouts and plenty of prawns atop the noodles. Then you can choose to squeeze some lime juice (the limes are mini-size in Borneo, but full of juice… and pips) and as much sambal (chilli paste) as you wish for added spice to taste. Admire it for a few moments, then mix it all up and scoff. The end result is scrumptious.

There are a plethora of other noodle options available should you so desire (and we heartily recommend you do). Kolo Mee is a noodle dish but rather than being eaten in a soupy broth, the noodles are drier, and flavoured with spicy flavoured oil. They are usually topped with pork slices, although vegetarian and vegan options are often available, but be sure to check the sauce as pork fat is a common addition to the dish. All noodle dishes are eaten with fork and spoon although chopsticks are often available should you need them.

Mighty Meats and Fantastic Fish

Chicken rice is a simple but tasty dish and known as a comfort food in both Malaysia and Singapore. Chicken is poached with simple flavourings and served with rice that has been cooked in the chicken stock. It is quite delicious.

To many, offal can be awful, but let us shatter your expectations regarding entrails engorgement by pointing you in the direction of kueh chap. This is a stew of goodness that defies expectations with its normally unpleasant animal insides served in a rich and delicious broth. With a heritage based upon Chinese cuisine, the kueh – flat portions of rice cakes – are served in a gravy made from pork bones and accompanied by a plethora of ingredients such as pork belly, braised eggs and, yes, pork entrails. The result is delicately textured, balanced and subtle in its savoury goodness. And if you have any fears about eating entrails, don’t worry, they were soft and delicate and utterly delicious.

Should you prefer seafood, umai is the Melanau equivalent of the Peruvian dish ceviche. Raw fish is marinated in lime juice, chilli, salt and very finely diced onions.

It is exquisite in its salivating joy. A variety of fish are available, we even enjoyed a jellyfish version. Jellyfish is surprisingly crunchy.

Variety of Vegetables

Midin is suited for all but especially those who don’t eat meat. It is a fern that grows only in Sarawak, a speciality dish that fetches high prices particularly when sold to posh restaurants in Singapore. These curly fern shoots are fried with garlic and either red wine or (for non-vegetarians and closer to the correct local manner) belacan, a fermented spicy shrimp-based sauce. Midin has a delicately firm texture and agreeable taste that is a welcome accompaniment to any other of the wonderful dishes that Sarawak has to offer.

Bidin is another type of wild fern. Fried with chilli and garlic it makes a lovely side dish.

Manicai, a leafy green vegetable, stir fried simply with eggs and topped with fried onions, is another delicious accompaniment to many dishes.

Street Food Snacks

Stuffed buns are fabulous snacks to enjoy in Kuching.

Portable and tasty, we sampled chicken siew pau, which has a flaky exterior and juicy chicken filling. Yam puffs have a delicious filling with a casing made of yam. And curry puffs offer a mild curry flavour.

Sweet Treats

Should you need cake, try the local speciality Sarawak kek lapis. A never-ending plethora of combinations tempt you in this multi-coloured sponge cake. There are family run stores all around Kuching, many on the road opposite the waterfront, each boasting to be the best, the original or the most authentic. These are family recipes at their most scrumptious as well as being delightfully pretty. Especially popular around the Islamic festival Eid, kek lapis is luscious, the multitude of flavours and colours that entice you with their square-shaped logs of dessert loveliness. The cakes are not too sweet, but full of flavour.

Food From The Forest

Over 60% of Sarawak is forested and is home to indigenous peoples, known as the Dayak. There are many tribes in the region and it is possible to take excursions from Kuching to spend time staying in longhouses and meeting the local people.

One of the great pleasures is tasting traditional dishes of the Dayak. Rice is the staple food. It can be cultivated within the forest, usually using a slash-and-burn approach to preparing the land. It is a dry cultivation, unlike the rice paddies seen in much of South-East Asia, so can only produce one crop per year. Rice is traditionally cooked inside segmented bamboo stalks: put the rice into the stem, add water and place in the fire. To release the cooked rice, rub the bamboo in your hands, then peel it open to reveal the tasty contents within. It’s delicious!

Hanok pansuh is a distinctly juicy delicacy full of tasty herbs and spices that make chicken meat sumptuous in its texture and taste. The key here is the cooking method, which is long and slow over wooden smouldering  sticks that add a smoky flavour. The chicken is diced and placed inside a bamboo stick with ginger flowers (not just your regular root), tapioca and lemon grass, infusing all the flavours delicately to make real treat, created and cooked in the sunshine. 

If you don’t get a chance to visit the forest, this dish is also available in Kuching. The Top Spot food court has a stand that offers traditional food.

A Culinary Bicycle Ride

One of the most enjoyable things to do in Kuching is to embark upon a bike tour of the city, stopping several times along the way to scoff various delicacies. It’s a great way to see the city and surrounding villages, visit local markets and taste lots of yummy food. Don’t worry if you’re not a confident cyclist (we’re quite nervous) – the roads are generally flat, the guide is very experienced and the local drivers are considerate.

Excellent Restaurants in Kuching

You don’t need to go to posh restaurants to find amazing food in Kuching. Top Spot, on the 6^th floor of the UTC building, is a food court where several different stall-holders offer a variety of dishes. This is the place to go for seafood. There is so much to choose from – you can even pick out your own fish or crab. The multiple stalls have specific seating areas. If they don’t serve the dish you want to taste, they’ll know where to get it and will place the order for you. Same goes for drinks. Just pay the other stall-holder when the food and beverages arrive. It’s best to bring cash with you.

Who doesn’t adore street food? Jin Padungan is a pedestrian pavement, and the team Padungan Street Food literally cook the food by the roadside. You can get terrific laksa and kueh chap here. Order and pay at the till, take a number, find a table on the pavement and your food will be served to you.

Lorong Kai Joo close to India Street has a bunch of cafes and restaurants, including the Hiap Yak Tea Shop where you can get your fix of opium coffee and Tong Kee bakery, where you stock up on of yam puffs, curry puffs and siew pau.

There is a hawker centre just around the corner, near the old fire tower. Min Huat Laksa & Kolo Mee is a great place to enjoy laksa and kolo mee.

Just behind India Street is the spice market, so you can purchase a variety of spices to bring home with you. They are great value, so make sure you leave enough space in your luggage.

Final Thoughts on the Best Kuching Food

Kuching is a very lovely city to visit, with plenty of things to see and do, but what makes it extra special is that it is truly a culinary delight with its endless array of delicious delicacies to enjoy.